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 ADVANCED
Mr. Meanor Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
40 to Life S 
Latrine , The T 
Mr. Meanor T 
Mug Shot T 
Off Scott Free T 
Safe Cracker T 
Soap on a Rope TR 
St. Valentines Day Massacre T,S 

Mr. Meanor 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ben Burnham, Doug Lantz
Page Views: 1,979
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: Mr. Meanor (March 2014)

Description 

I felt the crux was getting some tricky gear in midway up on a less than perfect stance. Otherwise it protects well and and has a few bolts.

Location 

Thin crack near left side of Mr. Meanor wall. Left of larger crack, bolted face up top.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and nuts plus bolts with chains anchors.


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By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Feb 1, 2008

this route has fun moves and protects well with small to medium cams. stays in the grade most of the way up.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009

2 bolts can be supplemented with a set of stoppers or cams to 1 1/2"
By Kelsey Rentchler
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 7, 2009

Hey fellow climbers. I wanted to make a note on this climb after an accident my climber had on this route on friday December 4th 2009. As we know a lot of routes on Mt. Lemmon have a pretty good run-out to the first bolt. With this climb there is a long run out to the first safety bolt. My climber did not know this was a mixed route and started the climb. After making the first 15ft to the fist bolt he realized it was a trad route and despite my orders to come down he decided to attempt the 15 ft run out to the second safety bolt with no gear. (climber ego got int the way). While clipping the second bolt the climber fell 30 ft to the rock below. I was the belayer on the fall and was able to slow him down enough that he didn't die. My climber broke his L1 &L2 vertebrae and his right arm. If the climber was prepared and had studied up (like he said he did) this fall could have been avoided.This is a great, easy, fun climb with the appropriate gear. Bolt and small cams (1-2's will work great)
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fun and varied moves! Did this TR after climbing Safe Cracker. I would NOT do this without a rack for the crack at the bottom and again maybe one more piece above the 2ed bolt. There are 2 bolts at 30' and 40' on a 60' climb so this is NOT a sport climb. Be safe and don't make the mistake the previous posters friend did.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Feb 13, 2013

I struggled trying to place a nut midway up the climb on an awkward stance. Gave up on the nuts and placed a #2 TCU that went in very clean. I placed a few other nuts and cams in addition to the bolts, but the rest were fairly straight forward from good stances.
By Paul Zander
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Maybe something has changed since 2009, and I'm not trying to dismiss what sounds like a very serious accident, but Kelsey's comments do not seem accurate to me. There is no 15 foot runout between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Its closer to 6-8 feet between them. IMO, gear is recommended before the 1st bolt, and somewhat optional on the 5.5 terrain above the 2nd bolt. The gear is a little tricky to place before the bolts, but once I got to the 1st bolt, the rest of the climb felt pretty safe.