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Routes in North-East Face
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Absent Friends S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bad Egg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Da Mogwai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deviant Direct, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deviant, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Greenwood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Ending Story, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pumpy Brewster S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sha Bi Ab Bi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Too Much Ecstasy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wonderful World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Colton Lindeman, 08/2007 |
| Page Views: | 754 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
A great route, and without a doubt the best 'hard' route at The Egg. Some big moves, some steep-ish, alot of tricky, thin stuff, and a tough (but safe) clip in the crux -- all this on great stone.
This is a very devious route which epitomizes Yangshuo-style thin and delicate face climbing. The climbing is fun from bottom to top, and though it has a definite crux section, one can still fall off near the top on the home stretch. Don't celebrate until clipping the anchors!
The guide book has it at 12b (7b), though hints that it may be 12c. Everyone I've spoken too agrees: this is solid 12c.
This is a very devious route which epitomizes Yangshuo-style thin and delicate face climbing. The climbing is fun from bottom to top, and though it has a definite crux section, one can still fall off near the top on the home stretch. Don't celebrate until clipping the anchors!
The guide book has it at 12b (7b), though hints that it may be 12c. Everyone I've spoken too agrees: this is solid 12c.
Location
Walk around from the Fried Egg face (East face) by staying on the upper path, climbing up the ~2m step, and walking past Wonderful World to the next small belay area. Mr. Greenwood is the middle route (between Pumpy Brewster, 11a and Sha Bi Ab Bi, 10a), the obvious thin face route with a large right-facing sidepull at the beginning.
You can also approach from the North Face, walking left through the cave along the path.
You can also approach from the North Face, walking left through the cave along the path.
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