Mr. Green Slings
|574 page views|
Climb the short, easy crack at the back of a shallow dihedral past a horizontal crack to a ledge. This is where the fun starts. Climb the face above the ledge with a crack and headwall on the left to an overhang. The face is covered with lichen and is smooth, making the stance below the roof difficult to maintain for long. The crux is pulling through the roof. The crux moves protect very well with a large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and a large stopper above the roof. Match hands on the crack, lean away, and through up a heel. Transfer your weight and mantle up to a good stance above the roof. Continue up the crack and walk off the top.
Located about half way down the wall. There is a large cedar tree on the upper ledge that marks the top of a couple of bolted routes. From these bolted routes, continue down the wall past a nice hand crack that splits the entire wall (Yee Haw). Look for a somewhat rotten looking crack in the back of a shallow dihedral with a small roof higher up on the route.
Standard rack, bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot for the crux. Anchor off trees.
|Comments on Mr. Green Slings
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Nov 30, 2011
BETA ALERT!... Enjoying the benefit of watching my partner pump out and peel trying to protect the crux roof, I took the lead. I breezed up to his high point, a stupid easy back step high on the left atop the right facing corner provided a no-hands stance for a relaxing gear placement. The crux section is 5.7 from this stance, least according to my measure. A good route to break into 5.8's.