Mr. Green Slings 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006 |
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb the short, easy crack at the back of a shallow dihedral past a horizontal crack to a ledge. This is where the fun starts. Climb the face above the ledge with a crack and headwall on the left to an overhang. The face is covered with lichen and is smooth, making the stance below the roof difficult to maintain for long. The crux is pulling through the roof. The crux moves protect very well with a large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and a large stopper above the roof. Match hands on the crack, lean away, and through up a heel. Transfer your weight and mantle up to a good stance above the roof. Continue up the crack and walk off the top.
Location Located about half way down the wall. There is a large cedar tree on the upper ledge that marks the top of a couple of bolted routes. From these bolted routes, continue down the wall past a nice hand crack that splits the entire wall (Yee Haw). Look for a somewhat rotten looking crack in the back of a shallow dihedral with a small roof higher up on the route.
Protection Standard rack, bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot for the crux. Anchor off trees.
| Comments on Mr. Green Slings |
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By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Nov 30, 2011
| BETA ALERT!... Enjoying the benefit of watching my partner pump out and peel trying to protect the crux roof, I took the lead. I breezed up to his high point, a stupid easy back step high on the left atop the right facing corner provided a no-hands stance for a relaxing gear placement. The crux section is 5.7 from this stance, least according to my measure. A good route to break into 5.8's. |
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