Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.
Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.
A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws.
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name o...
|By Rick Mix|
May 27, 2012
So, I put this route up with Nino Rocha.
I used a cam before the bolts.
Glad to see it's getting done.
The route name is Dear Mr. Fantasy.