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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Mr. Fantasy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,988
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007

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Chad enjoying the day with his friends on Mr. Fant...


Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.


Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.


A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws.

Photos of Mr. Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name on Mr. Fantasy.
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name o...
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By Rick Mix
From: Nederland, Colorado
May 27, 2012

So, I put this route up with Nino Rocha.
I used a cam before the bolts.
Glad to see it's getting done.

The route name is Dear Mr. Fantasy.