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Mr. Critical 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Neil Kauffman, Trevor Bowman, Joel Kauffman, Alf 4/10/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 643
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011

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Neil drilling the anchors on the FA.

Description 

A splitter, crescent-shaped OW into squeeze chimney. Quite clean, as it's been water-worn over the eons, somewhat like the Drainpipe in Donnelly.

A couple butterflies lead to stacks/kneelocks and into the crux stretch of chickenwings and heel-toeing; the squeeze gradually widens and you can fully burrow in before finishing up an unexpected handcrack on the left wall to the belay ledge. A great blue-collar trainer!


Location 

About 5 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope. No plaque, but anchors are visible and the route will be obvious from the pictures.

Protection 

(1)#2,old #4, new #5, new #6 Camalots, blue big bro, slings. Chain anchors.



Photos of Mr. Critical Slideshow Add Photo
Joel wriggling up the crux section.
Joel wriggling up the crux section.

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