Mr. Critical 5.11
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Keen Butterworth through the hard stuff... Mr. Cri...
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Description This route is a classic. good moves on crimpers and crystals, and a bit balancey.
Location This route is on the west face of hornets nest. If you start from the right side it is the 4th route after a detatched flake, starts to the right of a little overhang.
Protection 13 bolts and there are anchors on top, bring 2-3 sized cam for the horizontal crack to clip 12th bolt if you are short but there is a good undercling to clip bolt, and 2 ropes to get down.
Sustained from the get go.
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Mr. Critical
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Mr. Critical
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Mr Critical
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The final section of Mr Critical
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Moving up to the crack
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Where did the guidebook say to go again? The righ...
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Goofball Aaron Costello, with Jay following Mr. Cr...
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Mr. Critical, May 09.
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Why did I not refill my chalk bag? Mr. Critical, ...
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Travis pinching classic crystals on Mr. Critical.
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Travis on Mr. C.
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Trinh with an onsight attempt
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Shalayne into the thin section
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008
| Highly recommend this route. Just wonderful climbing. Side note: last two bolts are rusted/thin and in need of replacement. But the belay anchors are new, beefy, and well-equalized. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11
| I walked by and under this route many times in the preceding 5 years, each time looking up longingly and then coming up with some lame excuse for not going for it. It really boiled down to intimidation. The route is long, mostly vertical, and looks serious. Other 11's at Rushmore are very tricky and can be very balancy and beta intensive. Well, this year was it. Go for it, I say. Superb route!!! It was the best route I've ever done. Most memorable anyway, super fun every step of the way. Every varied move, crimp, balance, slab, the feel of the rock, the rests, the breeze, the pine tree scent, Harley's on the road, it's all fantastic. Do it!! Don't wait 5 years like I did. Wish I could do it again on sight. Might have to do it again anyway. Oh, and I'm 5'10" and although I brought my #3 camalot, I didn't need or place it. I could reach the bolt above the bulge. |
By Ryan Angelo
Jul 7, 2011
| It can be done with a single 70m. Great Route! |
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