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Hornets Nest
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Mr. Critical 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,975
Submitted By: Cameron Luth on Oct 31, 2006
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Keen Butterworth through the hard stuff... Mr. Cri...
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Description 

This route is a classic. good moves on crimpers and crystals, and a bit balancey.


Location 

This route is on the west face of hornets nest. If you start from the right side it is the 4th route after a detatched flake, starts to the right of a little overhang.


Protection 

13 bolts and there are anchors on top, bring 2-3 sized cam for the horizontal crack to clip 12th bolt if you are short but there is a good undercling to clip bolt, and 2 ropes to get down.



Photos of Mr. Critical Slideshow Add Photo
Why did I not refill my chalk bag?  Mr. Critical, onsight, May 09.
Why did I not refill my chalk bag? Mr. Critical, ...
Travis on Mr. C.
Travis on Mr. C.
Mr. Critical
Mr. Critical
Goofball Aaron Costello, with Jay following Mr. Critical in the background.  Stellar route!  May 09.
Goofball Aaron Costello, with Jay following Mr. Cr...
The final section of Mr Critical
The final section of Mr Critical
Trinh with an onsight attempt
Trinh with an onsight attempt
Sustained from the get go.
Sustained from the get go.
Mr Critical
Mr Critical
Mr. Critical, May 09.
Mr. Critical, May 09.
Mr. Critical
Mr. Critical
Travis pinching classic crystals on Mr. Critical.
Travis pinching classic crystals on Mr. Critical.
Moving up to the crack
Moving up to the crack
Where did the guidebook say to go again?  The right or the left boltline?  Who left the book in the car anyway?
Where did the guidebook say to go again? The righ...
Shalayne into the thin section
Shalayne into the thin section
Comments on Mr. Critical Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008

Highly recommend this route. Just wonderful climbing. Side note: last two bolts are rusted/thin and in need of replacement. But the belay anchors are new, beefy, and well-equalized.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I walked by and under this route many times in the preceding 5 years, each time looking up longingly and then coming up with some lame excuse for not going for it. It really boiled down to intimidation. The route is long, mostly vertical, and looks serious. Other 11's at Rushmore are very tricky and can be very balancy and beta intensive. Well, this year was it. Go for it, I say. Superb route!!! It was the best route I've ever done. Most memorable anyway, super fun every step of the way. Every varied move, crimp, balance, slab, the feel of the rock, the rests, the breeze, the pine tree scent, Harley's on the road, it's all fantastic. Do it!! Don't wait 5 years like I did. Oh, and I'm 5'10" and although I brought my #3 camalot, I didn't need or place it. I could reach the bolt above the bulge.

By Ryan Angelo
Jul 7, 2011

It can be done with a single 70m. Great Route!

By irujo
Jul 14, 2013

badass climb, serious credit to all you Rushmore climbers