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Mr. Cranky Pants 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lee Sheftel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,304
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Aug 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Marshall (9) cranking Mr. Cranky Pants.

Description 

Another new addition to Rifle, Mr. Cranky Pants climbs featured, sometimes hard-to-read gray limestone with mostly big holds to a crux where the rock turns to textured orange limestone. The crux seems easiest when staying left instead of going out right via an alternate way. If you go out right, plan on finding a way to delicately traverse back left while above your last bolt. Finish on great stone to the anchor.

Location 

This is the first route left of Ivory Tower but starting below Ivory Tower's belay ledge.

Protection 

12 bolts and anchor.


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By D-Storm
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this again Sept. 9, 2012, and it has cleaned up really well. There are still two wiggly holds near the top. One is a tempting jug that is easily avoided and the other one is a hollow flake that must be used to reach the anchor. With careful technique, it is possible to avoid pulling OUT on the flake as you climb above it. Regarding the "Z-clip bolt ladder," maybe some bolts were removed, as they were well spaced on Sept. 9 — closer together at the beginning and farther apart higher up. A good route for the grade at RMP; but maybe not the best for new 5.10 leaders due to the funky climbing at the end.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Nice route; hard for 10a. There are two distinct cruxes on the top half of the route.
By Kaylene Grove
Aug 16, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not sure who Mr. Cranky Pants is, but it wasn't me while I was on this route! Great flow and fun moves up to a distinct crux 2 bolts from the top. Don't be afraid to step down to the stance and figure it out if need be!

Well-bolted. However, take 13 draws (+ anchors). Either I can't count, or a bolt was added, because the guidebook reads 12 bolts + anchors, but I was short 1 draw. 1st bolt is pretty low, so you may opt to skip it.

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