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The Nappy Dugout
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Mr. Cranky Pants 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lee Sheftel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Aug 1, 2011

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Description 

Another new addition to Rifle, Mr. Cranky Pants climbs featured, sometimes hard-to-read gray limestone with mostly big holds to a crux where the rock turns to textured orange limestone. The crux seems easiest when staying left instead of going out right via an alternate way. If you go out right, plan on finding a way to delicately traverse back left while above your last bolt. Finish on great stone to the anchor.


Location 

This is the first route left of Ivory Tower but starting below Ivory Tower's belay ledge.


Protection 

12 bolts and anchor.



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By D-Storm
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this again Sept. 9, 2012, and it has cleaned up really well. There are still two wiggly holds near the top. One is a tempting jug that is easily avoided and the other one is a hollow flake that must be used to reach the anchor. With careful technique, it is possible to avoid pulling OUT on the flake as you climb above it. Regarding the "Z-clip bolt ladder," maybe some bolts were removed, as they were well spaced on Sept. 9 closer together at the beginning and farther apart higher up. A good route for the grade at RMP; but maybe not the best for new 5.10 leaders due to the funky climbing at the end.