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Red Slab
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Desperado 
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Mantel Route, The 
Mr. Cornflakes 
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Red Red Whine 
Red Slab 

Mr. Cornflakes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,591
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Mr. Cornflakes in on Red Slab, Rock Canyon

Description 

Quite possibly the best line on Red Slab, this route is an exciting lead with good, solid holds the whole way, and requires a bit of thought here and there to figure out a way past a seeming blank spot.

After mildly tricky start with some small crimps or a finger jam, you quickly pass the first bolt and reach a huge jug and breathe a sigh of relief. Continue straight up through three more bolts on small to mid-sized edges, then start trending to the right.

After clipping the penultimate bolt, take a second and wonder how you're going to surmount the blank rock before you. After figuring it out, reach nice, large positive edges and cruise to the top.


Protection 

8 bolts, ring anchors.


Location 

Third bolted line from the left on the "main" portion of Red Slab (this ignores the bolted line on the far left (Red Red Whine).



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By Mark Gillis
Aug 20, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Gear Alert

Climbed it yesterday, seemed thin for 5.7, but a great route. The first bolt is past a 5.7 move. No need for anything but quickdraws...( 7 or 8) On second thought I would bring a snaplink for the top as the chains are starting to wear through pretty well. This route gets done everyday, but get up at 630 in the morning and you have the wall all to yourself. Rock Canyon is beautiful in the morning...

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
May 13, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The start is pretty easy, and would be good for the new leader. The bolt line moves to the south and shares the top few bolts and anchors of the Mantle Route. If you get stuck at the crux on the Mantle Route, lower off and climb Mr. Cornflakes to avoid the Mantle Route crux.

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Mar 25, 2008

Add this accident (page 2) to the history of this route.

By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

I don't know if I was on the wrong route or something, but this felt pretty stout for 5.7. Cruxes came with your feet about the last bolt, which I don't think would be very good for a new leader.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

As with many lines in RC, once you commit to the move, it isn't that big a deal. The opening is fun for red slab (not hard to accomplish).
For a bit more fun try leading this at night under a full moon, without a headlamp. I really had to try hard to remember where everything was...

By Jamie Cummings
Apr 18, 2010

Bit of a scary start due to a ledge at the beginning of the climb. Falling before clipping the first bolt would probably lead to a nasty injury. Everything is on the route that you need to complete it, but there are some very tricky spots that leave you wondering. At the top be sure to look for anchors to the right. The more obvious anchors belong to the 5.11 on the left.