Mr. Clean 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | PDub-Trad on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Description Like many routes from this lines' FAist, Mr. Clean has a mossy, uncleaned first 10 or so feet. Beyond this first section, as climbing starts to get spicy, crack systems are visibly cleaned. A set of steep, fingery moves with powerful moves gain stances and a bit of wandery climbing to gain the upper crack portion. Don't wander too far right into a dirty gulley corner. While a stretch of 5.8 climbing is only protectable via gear options in this extreme right area, the rope drag will crush you for upper crux. While it may be hard to refrain from placing beyond lower crux, if you do place in this right corner, bring loooooong slingage, or anchor in and bring up the second to allow for smooth travel thru distinctive upper crux. 10c will be felt in the upper crux with obvious crack system snaking down from the top tree anchor to a ledge stance before crux. Moving off ledge into crack is first crux, then second stance in this upper crack will spit you or victory. Without a longer rope, or splitting the route in 2, trees for anchors further from the cliff's edge than initial trees will not be reached.
Location Pleasure Palace, after sidewinder and cleaned for her pleasure, well before guillotine. Hit and Run is within a hundred feet on the trail past Mr. Clean. Beyond sidewinder travelling west routes' visibility will be obscured. Mr. Clean sits right of an obvious roof with an undone line running into it. To the right of Mr. Clean, a left facing corner is uncleaned and provides a cliff turn before heading back to Sidewinder. Hit and Run is a bit more obvious uptrail - and it can be helpful to identify hit and run and backwards to it. If you hit Guillotine and 2 beers and a baby you've traveled too far past Mr. Clean.
Protection #00 tcus to 4 inch cams
NO BOLTS at Moolack
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