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Mr. Clean 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 10, 2012
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Jeff about to descend Mr. Clean. The route starts...

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Awesome route (when it's clean). Bouldery start, to right-ward traverse, past a fixed pin, finish on stellar left-leaning hand crack. Doesn't get much traffic, and might be pretty dirty. Ajax (5.11d?) is the splitter thin crack that heads straight up after the fixed pin.


Stranded in the middle of Black Wall, with a couple of other obscure but good routes. Between "One Hand Clapping" area and "Black September" area.


Gear to 2", chain anchors.

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By Patrick Mulligan
Jun 14, 2013

This is as clean as I've ever seen it. I've never gotten on this because its normally filled with moss and munge. It was obvious that someone had done some cleaning, and I did much more - gardening out spots for nuts, etc. This is as good as it gets, with more traffic this thing would be perfect and lose the grit that has built up. Go get it, its a good one that packs a punch.

I'd bring a lot of finger (.3-.75 BD)sized gear and a full rack of nuts. I placed almost all finger sized gear and nuts, save one #2 camalot to protect the final mantle to the chains.

By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 4, 2014

This one is much harder in the heat as the black rock remains warm and slick even after the route goes into the shade.