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Mr. Clean 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peter Hunt, Bill Robins, and Pete Rieke 88'
Page Views: 1,466
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Leading the pretty nice Mr. Clean route.

Description 

A good finger crack and stemming dihedral.

Climb a short section of choss to the top of a short broken pillar to the right of the belay.

Climb the corner dihedral in front of you. There is a bolted line on the face to the right of the corner. Finger locks and stems stay consistently interesting to the top. Belay from bolts on top (no rappel or lowering hangers).

Location 

Just right of Boshido (bolted 10.b) there is a alcove with 5 crack routes. Mr. Clean is the right-most corner above the broken pillar. Just left of the next bolted route (Friends 10.d).

Protection 

Mostly small with a couple hand-sized. Slings to avoid drag on first couple pieces.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a good lead if you are new to 11a cracks, protects well with small cams and nuts, some hard moves to good rests makes this a pretty easy 11a.
My rule is if I can on-sight it, it must not be 11a, might even be 10c, but it is pretty pumpy.There are a few hard to protect chossy bits to bypass, but they are short bits.

There is now ( 2/2016 ) a 2 bolt sport permadraw type anchor at the top of this. Maybe not to worry but I noticed that the left bolt is either near or over a hollow flake, hopefully a 3" bolt.
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Nov 5, 2015

High quality for vantage standards. This crack eats small to medium stoppers nearly the entire way. Like almost all cracks at vantage, you can bypass cruxy sections of crack by utilizing face and arete holds on adjacent climbs. That's probably why it didn't feel 5.11. Climbed using just the crack it definitely will feel 5.11 as an onsight lead.

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