Mr. Blond  5.7

168 page views Good page?

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Slopers, Nick Martel New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  NickMartel on Sep 21, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Beta

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Slab climbing on super textured low angle to almost vertical wall. Mostly footwork and crimpers with a couple jugs near the top. moving to the right anywhere along the route makes it easier (5.6).

Location 

All the way to the right side of the main wall. 7' or so to the right of "Blonde Ambition". Start where the little 6-8' tall side wall to your right meets the main wall, or traverse right to left across the little side wall (try to avoid the jugs on top of this side wall, or use them, but the alternate start is designed to add a 2ed tough part) to the normal start. Near the top you should end up using the 1.5' tall flake with your left hand, or at least be close (1-2') to it, if you are right of this then you went too far right and did the 5.6 variation.

Protection 

Top rope chain anchor. We will eventually drill for lead once we finish the rest of the TR anchors on the dome. You can top rope directly off the chains but you can lessen rope drag by extending the anchors with shoulder length (or longer) slings without missing out on good climbing because it is low angle from the top of the crux section to the chains.

Photos of Mr. Blond Slideshow

Add Photo

Me lowering off after the second ascent