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Moxie 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C0 [details]
FA: Bradley White, Ryan Barber, 4/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: bradley white on May 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Moxie Finish

Description 

At the start to 'Killer's Crack' climb past three bolts on face left of crack ('Killer's Crack' start can be done with these bolts). It goes at (5.9+,A0) and it'll free at 11 or 12 friction.
We switched leads after I put in the bolts. Ryan proceeded up past the bolts to the foot ledge and traversed left to 'Back Crack' foot ledge. Left of here there is a rock bulge with a crack above it. Gear was place high left to protect going down left around the bulge and up the other side of it to good hand hold cracks for twenty ft.(5.4-5) left. At the traverse ending there is at a pocket, below the inclining corner wall above. Go up through the pocket and inclining corner wall passing a bolt and a pin crux (5.9+/10). Chain anchors or do Moxie's finish, that has an excellent sky-hook ledge move right of the pin. After the hook placement there is stopper gear, then reach for a large sloping dead tree to hold onto to get off the wall. 4th class up to belay tree. The sky-hook ledge is knife blade sharp. This top off could have a little cleaning first, before free climbing below the dead tree.
I didn't do the hook finish. I did the wild long pendulum swing right. That sliced the rope's sheath. Route is set up now to avoid this kind of mishap. The route zigzags and it'll always take some thinking to avoid rope drag or do a two rope belay.

Location 

left of 'Killer's Crack' or start at 'Back Crack' skipping the bolt start.

Protection 

Stoppers, small/medium tri-cams and aliens or small friends, four bolts and a pin.


Photos of Moxie Slideshow Add Photo
Topo when started from "Back Crack"
BETA PHOTO: Topo when started from "Back Crack"
Ryan on FA (Photo by Bradley White)
Ryan on FA (Photo by Bradley White)

Comments on Moxie Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2012
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 25, 2012

I don't realy understand running over a section of a nice clean crack that has been freed, with bolts to to make a funky contrived aid route. Wouldn't it have been better to let somebody who can climb a little harder put up a nice free route on the natural line to the left? Sorry if I am being harsh guys, but it sounds like you are making a mess.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 25, 2012

K, Bradley. I may be being hyper sensitive, based on a photo. By left, I was thinking either starting on Back Crack, or I thought there was another line just left of that.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 26, 2012

So the route climbs the three bolts placed close to "Killer's" and then crosses over 'Back Crack"? then where does it go from here, the description is confusing...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 28, 2012

i have climbed and enjoyed "Killer's" and i don't like the idea of these added bolts... ill have too look at it but with all due respect it doesnt sound like it was a good idea...
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 28, 2012

I've also looked at the other line that could be bolted..It looks like it will be good. As far as the bolts on this line...I see what everyone is saying here but my mind keeps comming to the same place...this is Rumney. We can all think of a very long list of routes that have been bolted when they could otherwise be lead clean. From the outside it seems comical that there is a Bolt War on the horizon over such an obscure line in a Internationally recongnized Sport Climbing area. Just some perspective...BTW, the roof above is SICK!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 28, 2012

Bradley, you are being WAY too sensitive to a little constructive criticism and adding imaginations to what I wrote. If you want to understand me correctly, just read the words as I wrote, please.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 28, 2012

Bradley, you are kind of losing it. I don't think it is productive to have a discussion while you are in that state. I will simply say my original point was "Dude, you are placing bolts right beside an established crack climb to make a contrived aid start to a route up a 3 or 4 foot wide strip of rock next to the crack, that than crosses over another route. That seems like a not well thought out idea and kind of bizarre. Is that really necessary?If it is aid because you haven't finished it, that is a point, but making it 2 grades harder by not using the crack is still contrived. This is a rather obscure piece of rock that is probably not worth three pages of arguing and bad blood.

I will respond to the Son of Sammy issue since it obviously bothers you and you keep bringing it up. That is a route that I agree was the one I perhaps stepped over the line some retroing and I apologize if I did. That was an exception from my usual attention to getting prior permission from the FFAist and reasonable consensus from other climbers. At the time, it was my understanding from talking to other locals that you were no longer generally around and indisposed, so hunting you down to discuss it was not practical. It was also believed by many (rightly or wrongly) that you had paid a visit to Monsters crag and had smeared human excrement on the wall , writing "No Bolts" (hence the route, No Shit), so at the time I somewhat discounted your opinion. So I partially cleaned and retroed a chossy little route. To protect it with gear was still kind of funky until more cleaning and prying made the gear more solid. If that was a mistake, than I accept that. It seems most think it was an improvement though.

Bradley, you get upset when there have been misunderstandings or omissions of your climbing history, but you have to take some responsibility for that. Your communications are often not easily decipherable and there have been episodes that have alienated you at times from the community. Most of us feel friendly towards you and have respect, but it is not always easy.

Pardon the public nature of this. I know it is not really appropriate.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 28, 2012

wow... it was my opinion... i know that my opinion doesn't mean more than any other's... we should all give our opinions here...

i bitched about Son of Sammy when that got bolted... if i told mark about that opinion he wouldn't have freaked out, he would have explained his reasons and i'd explain mine... then we would move on to future climbs with more understanding...

Never have i tried to insult anyone on this site... there is NOTHING personal about this or any other "controversy" Me you and mark have gotten in to... we have to stop meeting like this haha... really you and i likely see eye to eye more than most on the topic of adventure climbing and it's place at Rattlesnake Mountain...
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 29, 2012

Yeah, but the roof above is really good!

I like this line too. A lot of emotion here, good to see so much passion for all of OUR favorite sport! Ultimatley, it is Rumney, the line has no history (as far as I know) so bolting seems to be the obvious thing to do. I'd agree that everyone probably has the same view point but as an outside observer there does seem to be some hightened sensativity here.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13

"I don't realy understand running over a section of a nice clean crack that has been freed, with bolts to to make a funky contrived aid route. Wouldn't it have been better to let somebody who can climb a little harder put up a nice free route on the natural line to the left?

K, Bradley. I may be being hyper sensitive, based on a photo. By left, I was thinking either starting on Back Crack, or I thought there was another line just left of that."



Mark, you are correct. This is the way that Moxie should be climbed: Start on Back Crack, and veer left into the crack structures that lead up to the roof. It just happened that the first time through started on this bolted face and then crossed over onto Back Crack. The rest went up the natural line you mentioned. On the last few moves I had to aid through because there was no more solid gear and I had to sky hook my way off the cliff. Last week, I rapped in and added a bolt where the sky hooking was required as well as some anchor chains for then lower off. Now its a nice little trad line with decent gear the whole way and a little excitement at the end. I will write a new route description for the free line which should help clear up any confusion.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 29, 2012

I'm glad to see that shit smearing stain on your reputation wiped off, Bradley. It has been for too long whispered. I am glad I brought it up after all, so you could answer it. It's one more colorful story of the history of Rumney gone though, lol. Are you sure you want to destroy such a reputation, after all, that "crazy guy who smears his own poop with his bare hands" is a pretty powerful image. We need a few characters(jk)
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 1, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13

I thought we were going to keep this ascent as "Original Moxie" and put the clean free version as "Moxie" so people can repeat as well as trash all the comments on this forum..? It goes nice at 5.9+ with pro similar to that of "Beginners route" over in the Meadows. There's a bolt at the top before the pin to give a safe free finish and a lower off with clips.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 1, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13

Oh... I guess the free version is posted as "Know Moxie". I'll throw the topos over onto that one now.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 12, 2012

not applicable comments. My associates met Killer. He doesn't care about the bolts left of his crack climb. Did the crack once and moved onto to doing other climbs.