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Moving to Sacramento - need partner/s
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By Rob Rethans
May 9, 2012
I'm moving to Sac at the end of the month for an internship at the UC Davis medical center. I lead trad in the 10s, sport in the 11s, and have a good attitude. I care more about getting out there and having fun than pushing grades, though I'm also down to go for it.

My game plan is to hang around Pipeworks on weekday nights and chase granite on the weekends. If you want to share a rope or have any tips on getting plugged in to the scene, I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks!!
Rob

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 9, 2012
Bucky
Hey Rob,

Most regulars who climb outside come to Pipeworks on Tues./Thurs. evenings. This is probably your best bet for meeting people and finding partners.

Welcome to Sac.
Cheers.

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By Rob Rethans
May 9, 2012
Thanks for the tip J. Very much appreciated. Maybe I'll bump into you one of these nights...

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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From Sacramento, CA
May 9, 2012
Climbing in the Washington Cascades with Frank and company.
Hey Rob,

Welcome in advance. I'm in the same boat as you, moved to Sac a few weeks ago to work at the med center. The climbing scene's good here, and there's tons of nearby granite.

I'm trying a Granite Arch membership this month, doing T-day after work training. Haven't been to Pipeworks to rope up yet (only a boulder session).

I might be a bit of a drag, being pretty new to (west coast trad) climbing, but if you ever need a belay, drop me a line. I can follow moderates, lead easier pitches, or hit the gym just fine.

Have a smooth move,

Justin

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By Rob Rethans
May 10, 2012
Hey Justin,

I'll definitely drop you a line when I get into town. You won't be a drag at all. I'm perfectly happy climbing mellow routes at the Leap all weekend. Besides it will be cool to know someone who climbs at the med center.

I'll PM you with my contact info

Thanks!
Rob

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By Sheets
From Livermore, CA
May 10, 2012
I live in Livermore but my wife is up in Davis so I spend my weekends up there.

If you want a partner I'm currently looking for someone that can lead in the 10/11s trad/sport.

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By Matt Collins
From Chico,CA
May 10, 2012
tuolumne meadows
I live in Chico, but am up for weekend trips or possibly midweek trips to places.

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By Rob Rethans
May 11, 2012
Sheets - PM sent

Matt - PM me your contact info and I'll give you a call.

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By Karsten
From Sacramento, CA
May 11, 2012
FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo
Hello Rob and Justin,
I climb at the Granite Arch on Tues/thurs about 8-10pm. Sometimes we even head out afterwards for some food/beers. There is a group of us but were always looking to add a few more. I like the lower testosterone levels of the GA gym but PW is pretty fun too.

Welcome to Sac, nothing great here but a couple of hours from everything.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 11, 2012
Bucky
Karsten wrote:
I like the lower testosterone levels of the GA gym but PW is pretty fun too.


Huh? Most of the regulars at PW are in the 30-55 year old range and are not exactly testosterone laden folks. Kind of a puzzling comment.

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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From Sacramento, CA
May 14, 2012
Climbing in the Washington Cascades with Frank and company.
Karsten wrote:
Hello Rob and Justin, I climb at the Granite Arch on Tues/thurs about 8-10pm. Sometimes we even head out afterwards for some food/beers.


Hey Karsten, I'll try to find you at GA and say hey this Tuesday. I'll probably be toproping something when you get there. Thanks!

[edit: I keep forgetting to look for you when I'm at GA. Once I start climbing I get tunnel vision.]

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 14, 2012
Colonel Mustard
J. Albers wrote:
Huh? Most of the regulars at PW are in the 30-55 year old range and are not exactly testosterone laden folks. Kind of a puzzling comment.


It's been some years since I was a regular, but I remember PW as one of the more diverse gyms you will find, not a bro pit or whatever was being implied. Hell, it isn't even located in the strip joint district like GA is!

One of my climbing partners was a pregnant lady, fer chrissakes! But, yes, she just oozed testosterone! Haha! Or maybe that's progesterone. I can't remember which hormone it was.

PW was my first gym, so I get a say ;).

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By Rob Rethans
May 19, 2012
Karsten -
Cool thanks for the invite! I will def check out GA too. If you guys ever need to even up numbers on a trip let me know! Will even offer a beer bribe.....

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By Tele Liz
From Davis, CA
May 24, 2012
Crack Attack, Indian Creek crag in the Red River Gorge, KY
Hey guys! I'm starting a job in a lab on the Vet Med campus at the start of July and will be looking for climbing partners! I'll lead 9s and low 10s trad, lead 10s trad and 2nd on 11s... Have a thing for crack climbing too.

And for the locals~ anyone know how far from UC Davis to the closest outdoor climbing?

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 24, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Tele Liz wrote:
And for the locals~ anyone know how far from UC Davis to the closest outdoor climbing?


I'm not a local anymore but probably bouldering at Vacaville.

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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From Sacramento, CA
May 24, 2012
Climbing in the Washington Cascades with Frank and company.
Tele Liz wrote:
...anyone know how far from UC Davis to the closest outdoor climbing?


Hey Liz, the nearest trad to Davis is probably Cosumnes River Gorge. Bucks Bar is about an hour and a quarter drive outside rush hour.

I'm a little newer to trad than you, and carless in Sacramento at the moment - but I'll drop you a line for climbing plans starting in July if you like.

Justin

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By AdamB
From Chattanooga, TN
May 24, 2012
Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin donation
There's people that climb outside at Pipeworks pretty much every night of the week, not just Tuesday and Thursday. Not sure what type of facts those are. You shouldnt have any problem finding partners.

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By AdamB
From Chattanooga, TN
May 24, 2012
Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin donation
Old Custer wrote:
I'm not a local anymore but probably bouldering at Vacaville.


and it's terrible. don't waste your gas money.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 24, 2012
Colonel Mustard
AdamB wrote:
and it's terrible. don't waste your gas money.


It seemed okay and is fairly close to Davis. It will be terribly hot though pretty soon. Granted, I don't really care much about bouldering and only went there once.

The closest climbing is not secret and all easily available on this site anyway. Cosumnes, Sugarloaf, Lover's Leap, Phantom Spires, Donner Summit, Bowman, Wright's Lake, Table Mountain (near Jamestown), Yosemite, Indian Springs.... All close enough, just search them here and decide....

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 24, 2012
Bucky
AdamB wrote:
There's people that climb outside at Pipeworks pretty much every night of the week, not just Tuesday and Thursday. Not sure what type of facts those are. You shouldnt have any problem finding partners.


To answer your question Adam, the Tuesday/Thursday "regular" crowd are in there on those days because they have a specific training regiman that fits in with climbing outside on the weekends. If you get outside regularly on the weekends and are working projects, then you generally need a rest day on Monday and Friday, i.e. rest before a redpoint day (Friday) and rest after two days of hard outdoor climbing (Monday). Are there people in PWs all days of the week (including weekends), sure, but if you are trying to get tuned into the crowd that spends a lot of time outside, then you are much better off coming to PWs on Tues/Thurs. Make sense?

....oh, and I am mainly referring to route climbers...I don't know what kind of training schedule the pebble pinchers are on...

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 24, 2012
Bucky
Old Custer wrote:
It seemed okay and is fairly close to Davis. It will be terribly hot though pretty soon. Granted, I don't really care much about bouldering and only went there once. The closest climbing is not secret and all easily available on this site anyway. Cosumnes, Sugarloaf, Lover's Leap, Phantom Spires, Donner Summit, Bowman, Wright's Lake, Table Mountain (near Jamestown), Yosemite, Indian Springs.... All close enough, just search them here and decide....


Yup. What the guy holding the beer said. I would add that IMHO, there are only a few trad leads at Consumnes worth doing (the ones that are good are nice though). Most guidebooks give time and distance from Sacramento as a reference; if you are coming from Davis, just add 15 miles and 20 minutes to your trip (unless the I-80 causeway traffic is bad).

Welcome to Davis Liz.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 24, 2012
Colonel Mustard
J. Albers wrote:
Yup. What the guy holding the beer said. I would add that IMHO, there are only a few trad leads at Consumnes worth doing (the ones that are good are nice though). Most guidebooks give time and distance from Sacramento as a reference; if you are coming from Davis, just add 15 miles and 20 minutes to your trip (unless the I-80 causeway traffic is bad). Welcome to Davis Liz.


I kinda like being known as the guy holding the beer ;). It's a fairly good way to spot me at the crag too.

I still need to get on those Gutenberger Wall routes, they look like they might be an adventure. True on the few good trad leads at Cosumnes comment. It's a great place to get a feel for granite though... Testpiece, Dinkum, as well as a 5.7 to the right of the formation strike me as all emininently leadable and moderate (5.9 or under). Unconquerable would be good with big gear. This time of year I'd do as the Sacramento/Bay Area herd do and get to Lover's Leap if I were looking for easy trad.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 24, 2012
Bucky
Old Custer wrote:
I kinda like being known as the guy holding the beer ;)


Yeah well where I grew up, that nickname would have been a badge of honor!! ....I mean beer is practically a sanctioned sport in Wisconsin.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 24, 2012
Colonel Mustard
J. Albers wrote:
Yeah well where I grew up, that nickname would have been a badge of honor!! ....I mean beer is practically a sanctioned sport in Wisconsin.


Nice!

I would like to add the asterisk that I usually don't drink from bottles at the crag. I was free soloing that bottled beer, deep into the no fall zone. Don't try that at home, kids, it takes years of bitch slapping your liver to adapt to the challenges of the Drinkharder crew.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 24, 2012
Bucky
Old Custer wrote:
Nice! I would like to add the asterisk that I usually don't drink from bottles at the crag. I was free soloing that bottled beer, deep into the no fall zone. Don't try that at home, kids, it takes years of bitch slapping your liver to adapt to the challenges of the Drinkharder crew.


Liver?!?! You still have a liver? No, no, no.... ALL the pros have portable dialysis machines. What do you think all those cheese hats really are? Functional and stylish.

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By Sam Stevenson
May 24, 2012
Great to see a strong climbing community here in sactown! I just move here for the summer and would love to explore tahoe and te sierras. I climb trad and sport. I tore my pulley 4 months ago so am weak but generally climb in the 5.10 5.11 area. Love long alpine routes of all levels. Would love to just get out doors. Hit me up If you'd like to climb. It sounds like I'll run into you'all at the gym during the week.

Sweet!

Sam

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