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Moving Out 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1991
Page Views: 1,750
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 7, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

Moving Out starts in a shallow corner system at the right end of Primo Wall just above the slabs. This route starts hard with some very in-obvious fingery moves in the corner. After no more than 10 or 12 feet the routes settles back for several reasonable moves. However, the first 10 ft may be the crux and probably more like 5.12a/b than 5.12a splitting hairs, I know). Slip out of the dihedral on some full-hand blocks to get a good stance before leading off into the second 5.12 crux. This sequence reminded me of The Crystal Tower route, Quartz Sports. It is a lot more delicate than it is powerful, and the feet leading into an undercling crux are pretty slender. Haul out of the undercling onto some Thank-God jugs, a few clips on moderate terrain, and the anchor. Two stars for sure. The climbing is tricky, fingery, powerful, and continuous. Personally, I get on Moving Out almost every time I go to Primo Wall. I'd pour Alan's beer myself for this fine addition.


Protection 

QD only. This 50 foot route needs just half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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Nice work, Max!!  Great send today!!!  Jay, you were great too!
Nice work, Max!! Great send today!!! Jay, you we...
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By Nate Weitzel
Aug 5, 2001

I found this route to be one of the better 12b's in the canyon. The climbing is technical, delicate, but also needs lots of power. Keep a close eye on the feet and you are well on your way to this one.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 17, 2001

I still haven't repeated this route after doing it 5 years ago and personally think it to be more like 12c. There may be a height thing involved.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 8, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Excellent and sustained the whole way. I suppose I would agree that the first crux (12a) is a bit height dependent. (but hey, arent they all?) The second crux (12b) is a clever sequence of setting up to move out to the crack/lieback.

By Erik Durgin
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Totaly Rad!!! the most solid 12b I've done in the canyon. It was really hard for me! but I think thats because I'm bad at using my feet, so the second crux kinda turned into a heinous campus move (not recommended).
If you can, GET ON DAT SHIT.

By Luke Childers
Jan 17, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Climbed on this again for the 1st time in a long time and found it to be just as great as it was then!! A fine line at its grade. It's one of my favorites for sure!!!

By GeoffElson
Sep 17, 2011

I am relieved to hear the cast of characters above discussing the difficulty but goodness of this route, as I go my a** handed to me on my first session. I agree this is easily the hardest 12b in the Canyon and would hold the grade almost anywhere. Really fun, difficult, and technical climbing, a most do.