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Councillor's Groove 
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Frodo's First Step 
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Libya Sucks 
Movin' on Over 
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Wisecrack 

Movin' on Over 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Simon Tooley, Jorg Beekman, 1981
Page Views: 496
Submitted By: kBobby on May 6, 2007
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

At the right end of the Main Wall are parallel cracks that don't quite make it to the ground. This is Movin' on Over. Fingers to hands.

There are bolts on both the left and right of the route (on other routes). Either one can be used to protect the opening moves into the crack, if you are so inclined (though I'm pretty sure both were added much much later than the FA). The crux is getting established into the crack.

At the top, there is a right-facing dihedral. You can go right or left here. The left is better.


Location 

At the right-hand side of the Main Wall.


Protection 

Gear to 2 inches. Two-bolt anchor. Walk off left.



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