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 ADVANCED
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
976 T 
Death in the Afternoon T 
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 
Moveable Feast T 
On the Nob T 
Poodle in Shining Armor T 
Poodle Jive T 
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 
Scary Poodles T 
Spoodle T 

Moveable Feast 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roy McClenahan and Helga Brown, March 1988
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: C Miller on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Movable Feast

Description 

Climb Poodle-oids from The Deep for 30' and then continue up the plated face above passing four bolts and some suspect holds. At the last bolt you have two choices - climb slightly left (5.10+) with long reaches between small edges or head right and climb the arete (5.9+), cutting back left higher up when possible (easier but scarier considering the bolt quality). Continue up easy face and cracks to the shoulder of the formation and then top out onto the summit block.

There are some good moves on this climb but the poor rock quality at the start detracts slightly as does the hollow holds on some of the face moves, and the bolts are in serious need of an upgrade. All in all a good adventure for those competent at the grade.

A single 70 meter rope is sufficent to descend. A single 60 meter rope might work if you swing left and downclimb some questionable rock (not recommended), but 2 ropes will work fine otherwise.

Location 

Located in the center of Hemingway Buttress about 30' right of Poodle in Shining Armor, just left of On the Nob and directly behind a large, healthy oak tree.

Protection 

4 bolts (5/16"), gear to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap (5/16")


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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Proud line, poor bolts and poor rock, so sad the climbing is so good. Going left at the last bolt is much nicer and very well protected. Bolt anchor needs long slings to rappel.
By Josh Harding
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Your right John, there is a lot of potential, but with bad bolts and bad rock by the end you are pissed off rather then having fun.