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The Dedication Area
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Move it or Lose it S 
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Soul Survivor T 

Move it or Lose it 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Graham & Bob Ahearn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: Chris Graham on Oct 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Description: Difficult steep face climbing. 5 bolts and some gear at mid-height.

Pitch 1: Climb the face past three bolts, make a dynamic move to a horizontal hold (possible .5), move feet up and shoot for the top of the block (.5-.75 behind the block). Make a delicate and difficult mantle move up to a rest and 4th bolt. move slightly left to an obvious flake and undercling and make thin moves up and left of next bolt. A balancy exit move will hold your attention until you are clear of the slab.





Location 

Directions: Located on a face 20' right of the Dedication Corner (12' right of Bondi Beach). Good spacious, and flat stance for the belay.

Descent: Rappel from the trees


Protection 

draws and cams from 0.5-.075

5 bolts

Tree anchor with stainless rap rings



Comments on Move it or Lose it Add Comment
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By Jeremy A
From: NH
Aug 30, 2011

Great route with some fabulous movement. Its amazing how the top mantle holds your attention so much after the rest of the route...good stuff.

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good climbing

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Sep 13, 2012

Sot on this again after a year or so. Damn it's on you from the moment you leave the ground...but what a fun route.

By steve chardon
Sep 14, 2012

wow .... great route. full on from start to finish! seems stiffer than 5.11a to me, particularly as an onsight. what do others think?

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Apr 18, 2013

Psyched you liked it Steve. The route definitely stays with you for sure. Could be a bit tougher than we rated it...consensus???

By APBT1976
Sep 17, 2013

Did it yesterday for the first time. Took one hang at the third bolt then got it. Top roped it after and got it clean my first try. I would say 5.11 is acurate although sustained imop it is no harder.

By burlap submariner
Jun 12, 2014

climbed this the other day and although Ive had trouble at the dynamic move in the past found this to be a great and challenging route. I think that the crux is not only the dynamic/deadpoint but also the moves getting set up for it after clipping the second bolt. As an onsight I would agree with the 11a grade however if you know the moves it feels considerably easier around 10c/d. In comparison to other 11- routes at this cliff I would say it feels a tad easier.