Mouth of the South  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  T. Anderson & R. Wright, 4/89 Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mouth of the South.

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This climb is just left of 'South Of The Mouth,' a massive right-trending flake and corner system, perhaps 50m uphill from the bolted routes Slab Left and Slab Right.

The route's is distinguished by the bolts running up through a series of big (and I mean BIG) pockets and incuts up to a crux at mid-height (3rd bolt) where the pockts end in favor of small holds and a sloper rail. There is a large pine tree growing against the cliff just left of this line.

Climb up on surprisingly good holds (5.9?) to set up for the crux, then use steady footwork to get onto the moderate slab. Finish by climbing up and slightly left to the top of Move Like A Stud for an anchor.

This is one fo the few lines at R2 that would get 2 stars in other areas. Its short length is made up for by its unique nature.

Protection 

4 bolts to a moderate runout to reach the rap station above 'Move Like A Stud .' Take 4 draws plus something to clip in up top.