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Mousetrap 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Varcos
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Mar 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Mousetrap 5.12-

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Description 

This route is near the far left end of Cat Wall. Follow a wide crack through a roof to a set of anchors. The crack continues through a higher roof, but I don't believe there are second set of anchors


Protection 

bring your offwidth gear, mainly #6 friends



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By S. C.
May 7, 2008

Sorry Buddy, Bob Scarpelli didn't do with the first ascent of mouse trap. Craig Luebben did the second its one of Varcos classics I think his wife Pamela did it as well..SC

By OW Poser
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Climbed to the rim on the FA no bolts after the 1st set. Fun stuff..

By Lon Black
Nov 30, 2009

Camalots: one #2, two 3's, one C4 #4 and one old #4, a C4 #5 and three #6s. You could do it with two #6s. Hell you could do it without pro, but three of them worked for me.

By Scott Bennett
Dec 8, 2009

I agree with Lon, I had 4 #6's, and placed all of them! Of course you could just place one at the roof, and then push one the rest of the way, less weight to drag up...
Anyone found pacticularly good beta for the roof? I ended up just chimneying and stemming all the way out to the lip, then thrutching around for a while, hanging on a piece, then switching into a lieback and turning the roof. I guess it worked, but I'd like to hear what the OW honemasters do. Do people invert on this? I was baffled...

-Scott

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 26, 2010

Yo S.C., actually, I believe Bob Scarpelli did do the FA of this with Varco. The FA went to the rim... so there were two people involved and Bob was one of them!