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2nd Meat Wall
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Mouse Meat 
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Unknown long corner 
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Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter 

Mouse Meat 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ??
Season: Gets AM shade
Page Views: 955
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 19, 2007
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Mike Morley at the Top of the long and varried Rou...

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Description 

A good pitch with lots of variety. This climb requires 2 ropes to get down from.
Not far left of Tofu Crack the wall is light in color and sports a few more lines not in Bloom's Book. The right most of these has a plaque labeled "Mouse Meat 5.10+" which seemed accurate enough. The climb starts vertical and goes to slightly less than vertical in a decent crack system, though it is not the typical Windgate varnished brown patina of the area. Climb 150' to a bolted anchor and rap on 2 ropes. There is a no-hands rest about 40' up that a TR climber can sit in for a "switch" of the belay if you have tied two 70m ropes together to do that.


Location 

The next obvious handcrack system left of Tofu Crack but right of the twin cracks of 'Even Ecstacy 5.9+' and the unnamed left-facing flake route. The wall is a tawny blonde here and not the typical Indian Creek brown varnish.


Protection 

2 ropes plus a variety rack.
It can be protected will with a double or triple set of cams to 3" and a few large nuts. The bottom of the climb is the real crux (1.5"-2" cams) at a bulge and the rock is less solid, and the top is a crux at perhaps .75" cams.
The less straight forward nature of the protection on the bottom of the pitch make it non-ideal for a Indian Creek newbie.



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By Michael Wheat
Oct 19, 2010

Didn't think this route was PG-13, probably due to the fact that I was able to get quite a few bomber C3 placements in.

By doligo
Apr 25, 2012

This route can go entirely on passives. Small nuts are way more helpful, IMO. Questionable rock in some spots.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 17, 2012

NOT PG13, Not even PG

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Aug 31, 2012

this thing love's the nut's like a porn star ... get on it an climb a long creek pitch on all passive gear....