This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).
The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.
The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.
This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.
Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short unknown bolted routes, you went too far. Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.
Call in the Young Guns....Start on cool belay ledge, after scrambling a short section of white quartz. A bolt on either end of the ledge intended for a dogline. Open with an elegant traversing sequence for the first three bolts (12-) and then cruise up a ledgy ramp to the start of the ceiling. 6 draws are hanging from this 35 foot overhang. I count about 3-4 hard cruxes, with the hardest part being a burly contorted boulder-problem getting established into the ceiling. You can expect po...[more]Browse More Classics in CO