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Mourning Glory

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nice Change of Scenery S 
Mourning Glory S 
Pandora's Blue Sharpie S 
Sweet Tides S 
Trail of Tears S 

Mourning Glory  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 16, 2009
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Mourning Glory as seen from the top of Playin' Hoo...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).

The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.

The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.

Getting There 

This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.

Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.

The approach takes about 10-16 minutes.

L->R: 

A. Sweet Tides, 11, 1p, 82', bolts.
B. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
E. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mourning Glory:
Sweet Tides   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 82'   
Browse More Classics in Mourning Glory

Featured Route For Mourning Glory
The route goes right through the center of the overhang. (Belay ledge hidden by a boulder.)

Mourning Glory 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b  CO : Golden : ... : Mourning Glory
Call in the Young Guns....Start on cool belay ledge, after scrambling a short section of white quartz. A bolt on either end of the ledge intended for a dogline. Open with an elegant traversing sequence for the first three bolts (12-) and then cruise up a ledgy ramp to the start of the ceiling. 6 draws are hanging from this 35 foot overhang. I count about 3-4 hard cruxes, with the hardest part being a burly contorted boulder-problem getting established into the ceiling. You can expect po...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mourning Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Mourning Glory as seen from north side of Tunnel 5. Project roof in the middle tent. called "Belays of Glory". warm up route on left prow, "Sweet Tides".
BETA PHOTO: Mourning Glory as seen from north side of Tunnel 5...
Potential stuff left of Sweet Tides!?
BETA PHOTO: Potential stuff left of Sweet Tides!?
Approach to Mourning Glory. Park before the bridge (0.2 miles) after turning at the Y junction.
BETA PHOTO: Approach to Mourning Glory. Park before the bridge...

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