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 ADVANCED
Lower Capitalist Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aries S 
Cheap Labor T,S 
Contra S 
Downsizing S 
Five Finger Discount S 
Flexin' Flake T 
High Tides S 
Lunchmoney S 
Mounty T 
Stroh's S 
Strohs Lite S,TR 
Venture Capital S 
Vitamin-N S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mounty 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Darren Mabe and Steve Grigel, April 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,769
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Pin and middle of route.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

EDIT: Start about 30 feet left of Lunchmoney along the ledge system. Climb the crack system that trends right and then up the jagged, left-facing flake. At the top of the flake, the angle eases and a few slabby moves, protected by pin, lead to a loose ledge. Continue up the left side of the dihedral (5.6) to anchors of Vitamin-N or Aries, 100 feet.

This is a pretty decent route as far as moderate Clear Creek trad climbs go.

Protection 

EDIT: 1 fixed pin, Standard rack, emphasis on TCUs and a few small nuts. Some of the placements are tricky to find, but can be bomber. A few runners help with the drag.


Photos of Mounty Slideshow Add Photo
About 1/3 of the way up the route...
About 1/3 of the way up the route...
Mounty follows the crack system in the center of t...
BETA PHOTO: Mounty follows the crack system in the center of t...
The juniper tree you belay next to, clip the belay...
BETA PHOTO: The juniper tree you belay next to, clip the belay...

Comments on Mounty Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2014
By Doug Redosh
Nov 7, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I thought that this was not an easily protected 5.7!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 11, 2002

We didn't think so either, hence the pro description.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 19, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

With permission from the FA, I added a pin to protect the cruxy insecure step left on to the slab. It is now well protected for the entire pitch, even though the gear is small, it is still bomber. Without the pin your feet were well above your last piece of small pro when you pull the insecure moves. Now the protection is consistent.

The route has cleaned up nicely and it has very enjoyable climbing that provides an excellent warm-up and approach pitch to Contra.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 14, 2003

Casey and I put in a Fixe 2 bolt rap anchor at the top of Mounty. Is easily accessible from the base of Contra. 90 feet to the ledge where Mounty starts (by a lone small juniper). Consider a belay anchor on the exposed ledge at the start -- large cam (#3 Camalot) / med hex.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The route seemed stiff for 5.7, especially for shorter folks. There is one slopey move early where a #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend is nice. Otherwise, nothing bigger than a #0.75 Camalot is needed.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun pitch. I used pro from a green Alien to a #3 Camalot. The steep crack in the middle of the pitch protects with a #.5 and a #.75 Camalot.

After the slab move by the pin, I angled left to a corner with four bolts on the right wall. I clipped the first two bolts (these are actually on the route Aries), then went left to the anchor shared with Vitamin N.

There is a good ledge at this anchor, so it is easy to belay here, bring up your partner, then rappel.
By Walldahl
From: Golden, CO
Aug 21, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think I missed a critical hold through the crux. Nevertheless, I managed to smear the feet a little higher and escaped the barn door action, just barely. I had at least a 20 run out through the crux and opted to clip the bolt just 3-4 right of the pin for my next piece. When I go back to climb this again, I will opt to use the pin and slot the bomber #7 nut up high instead of the bolt before the finish.
By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I was glad to see that fixed pin! Just like the FA said the pro is hard to find, but pretty good. I'm pretty sure that crux was protected with a really good #3 Camalot, and there's a couple good stoppers in that dihedral near the top. Worth it to bring the gear considering the short approach!
By Doug Redosh
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

8 years later, and I still think it is hard to protect the crux crack. I used a #1 cam up high, but it felt insecure. The good news is that there are bomber handholds once one makes the insecure move.
A #3 or 4 cam at 10 feet works well, too.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For the grade and being a gear route in CCC, this is a really good route. Very good rock quality, adequate protection but fairly engaging, fairly consistent at the grade throughout the length. Really fun. The added pin up high seemed like a pretty good addition. Nice find.
By Mike Bannister
Aug 16, 2012

The pro is there but tricky to place and a little funky. The leader should be solid at the grade. Lots of slings help.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Definitely agree the protection was a little less than obvious but very solid when you do find it. I was attempting to use only nuts but ended up having to use an orange Mastercam for my first placement in the horizontal crack/pod about ten feet up from the belay bolt. After that, nuts were all I used but I did run it out a bit before the fixed pin, because I did not bring a #3 or #4 with me. Easy moves, great hands but stiff for CCC 5.7s.
By Rob Meringolo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 26, 2014

Tricky pro, some face climbing through discontinuous cracks, makes for a nice CCC lead on gear. Go get it!