This controversial route climbs the southeast side of The Tooth, from the notch behind it. The hardest move encountered is on the lower section of the approach. From the base of the notch, climb to the top of a rib/boulder, inside the notch. Step off this on to the face and work your feet up to a 3" to 4" ledge or you can make a couple chimney moves on to this small ledge, step left and reach up with your left hand and grab a jug. Step up and grab a bigger jug (can be slung for pro, if you really think you need it) with your right hand. Match hands and work your left foot on to the jug that your left hand was just on and stand up. A few more moves up low angle, jug infested rock brings you to the summit.
The top is pretty cool.
There is a two bolt rappel anchor, down and right of the summit ( 1/4" and 3/8" with spinner hangers). Rappel down into the notch, or just down-climb the route.
Some gear if you wish, 3/4" to 1"? Slings would work around horns, I guess. It's 5.0, I don't bother with protection, so I can't really give you an accurate gear description. Don't forget your helmet!
BETA PHOTO: "Mountaineer's" Route approach.
Photo by Blitzo.
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 4th 1 2 I M 1b
Overrated at 5.1. It is for sure 4th class max.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b X
Russ, I'm stunned that you could downgrade this from 5.1 to 4th class. This is 5.4 R for sure, although I've never done the route. I do have a picture of it though, that I scanned from a guidebook, and fer' sure can see that dicey spot!
|By C Miller|
Oct 23, 2007
Thanks for fixing up the description Blitzo!
Oct 24, 2007
Your welcome, Chris. I'm going to go through all my descriptions and upgrade where needed.
|By Richard Shore|
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I MM 1c
Classic adventure, awesome needlepoint summit!