Mountaineer's Route 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | Matt Toensing on Oct 5, 2009 |
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Description Start on the gully on the south westside of the tower. Hike 10-15 minutes up the gully until you see a large tree leaning against the face. Start about 15 feet up the gully from the tree on the face.
Pitch 1: start out climbing the face. The face gets lower angle and leads to a large ledge with a tree on it. Belay at the tree. 5.8.
Pitch 2: from the tree, climb straight up the gully to another large ledge (easy climbing) to a knife edge ridge. Climb up the ridge a ways and set a belay at another ledge on the ridge. 5.4.
Pitch 3: keep climbing the ridge until another large ledge below a face with a crack splitting the face. 5.4.
Pitch 4: climb the crack that splits the face up to another large ledge and traverse to the summit. Really fun pitch!! 5.6.
Descent: downclimb from the summit to the south. You will be able to see some cord wrapped on some good blocks. A single rope rappel lands you on a ledge to where you can walk to the gully. Follow the gully to the creek.
Location Cross the creek via a log near the pullout. Hike to the right of the the tower to the gully.
Protection SR.
| Comments on Mountaineer's Route |
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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Oct 10, 2009
| We did this route in the dead of winter, temps below zero. See description under photo of the tower in the general Spring Creek section. I lead the last 2 pitches after dark, covered with verglass. |
By Matt Toensing
From: Boulder
Jul 11, 2011
| New rap cord and rap rings. |
By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 9, 2012
| Yeah, exploring is all great, but just to expedite the situation for the next guy:
1p - begin 10' right of the dead tree as described in the Malloy book. Yes, it's 5.8, but the last 25' are run out on slab, and belay at the large Douglas fir.
2p - ramble out to the RIGHT, following a gully toward another tree on the right end of a ledge (the elevation is even to the saddle in the ridge & the multi-geandarmed ridge to the left).
3p - the books says "climb a crack in the middle of the orange face, 7+". I'd say: locate a series of cracks and columns on the orange south face (60' tall). I climbed what I thought was the easiest line = the bulging base means commiting to the overhang. Climb discontinuous cracks while changing columns up and left, 5.9-.
4p - ramble along the ridge between broken, loose choss for 50'. Drop down 10', cross a notch, arriving at the obvious, 5.6 hand crack. You'll run out of rope about 15' below the actual summit. Belay on a platform.
From that platform:
scramble to the main summit on your left (the gray rock on the right is 5-10' lower).
From the platform: down scramble 20' behind a large chockstone to the rap anchor.
The rap anchor is 11mm rope w/ 2 steel rings.
The rope is now showing some surface wear.
Rap 80' to a ledge that you can walk off to rapper's right to gain the loose, dirty, dead-tree choked gully.
We found it extremely valuable to bring our trail shoes. |
By gavin hermann
Sep 25, 2012
| Such a fun climb route finding between pitches 1-2-3 can be tricky but not bad cruiser though! Last pitch is really fun, awesome crack with great gear. |
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