|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||mtoensing on Oct 5, 2009|
|Comments on Mountaineer's Route||Add Comment|
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From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Oct 10, 2009
|We did this route in the dead of winter, temps below zero. See description under photo of the tower in the general Spring Creek section. I lead the last 2 pitches after dark, covered with verglass.|
Jul 11, 2011
|New rap cord and rap rings.|
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 9, 2012
Yeah, exploring is all great, but just to expedite the situation for the next guy:
1p - begin 10' right of the dead tree as described in the Malloy book. Yes, it's 5.8, but the last 25' are run out on slab, and belay at the large Douglas fir.
2p - ramble out to the RIGHT, following a gully toward another tree on the right end of a ledge (the elevation is even to the saddle in the ridge & the multi-geandarmed ridge to the left).
3p - the books says "climb a crack in the middle of the orange face, 7+". I'd say: locate a series of cracks and columns on the orange south face (60' tall). I climbed what I thought was the easiest line = the bulging base means commiting to the overhang. Climb discontinuous cracks while changing columns up and left, 5.9-.
4p - ramble along the ridge between broken, loose choss for 50'. Drop down 10', cross a notch, arriving at the obvious, 5.6 hand crack. You'll run out of rope about 15' below the actual summit. Belay on a platform.
From that platform:
scramble to the main summit on your left (the gray rock on the right is 5-10' lower).
From the platform: down scramble 20' behind a large chockstone to the rap anchor.
The rap anchor is 11mm rope w/ 2 steel rings.
The rope is now showing some surface wear.
Rap 80' to a ledge that you can walk off to rapper's right to gain the loose, dirty, dead-tree choked gully.
We found it extremely valuable to bring our trail shoes.
By Paul Davidson
Jun 28, 2013
Ignore that bit about the Malloy book above and wandering out right.
Just follow the original posted instructions and the route finding on this thing is trivial. You cannot miss the knife edge arete. If in doubt, climb just left of the arete where it's obviously easy.
Quite fun, quite easy. I'm sure you could wander all over this rock and add harder things if you wanted to.
Damn there's a lot of rock in Spring Creek. Interesting there's only this one longer route. There must be more similar things.
BTW - we did a different first pitch. Due to a late start, we went further up gully to the next obvious ledge (with the big dead downed logs).
Start by a small pine, up and left (from that spot you could third class over to the big doug fir at the top of the normal first pitch.) 5.6-5.8 depending on where you step. Head for the big ledge below the arete up left. You might want to head up the arete a bit to set a belay then stretch a long pitch to the base of the 5.6 hand crack. Or belay on the big ledge below the arete.
I found the descent gully to be easy and open. Just a quick jaunt back to the packs.
Jun 28, 2013
|Paul, your first pitch is the way I usually take when soloing. I have soloed first pitch before, and it gets your blood going pulling on dirty loose flakes! Definitely one of the better solos in the area for a moderate outing (probably soloed it a dozen times in college and 5-10 times since then). Many opportunities for adventure on this piece of rock.|