Wow there really is a crack there. I never saw it until I read about it.
Climb the handcrack laying back mostly. Scramble across the ledge to where you can see the crack running up a corner. Jam and chimney up the corner to a stance and climb the last few feet to the same anchor as Rainbow.
Just to the right of the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge look for the nice crack through some dirty rock to the anchor of Rainbow.
Regular rack mostly hand size.
|Comments on Mountaineer's Crack
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Did this today and have a couple thoughts. Upper corner is actually pretty fun, but the start is terrible, and the rock is a little chossy. I popped a piece off while climbing, and so did the person who followed me. Not a highly recommended route but it was enjoyable.
I also owe a thank you to Tim Mijal for followed me up this :)
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2013
I had a foot a little bigger than a golf ball break while I was pretty runout on this. Luckily my hands were good and I caught myself, and the rock didn't hit anyone below. Be really careful climbing routes like this! Also your rope runs over some sharp ledges getting lowered from this. I don't recommend it for anyone.