Mountain Rose Rock Climbing
Greg before the first bolt on Golden Rose.
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>|
Per Mark Rolofson
: (amended at his request, to describe more recent developments there) The Mountain Rose crags are home to 11 sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12b and 6 trad lines from 5.5 to 5.10. The crags sit across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the south along the aqueduct path. These two side by side crags face Northwest and get afternoon sun. They are a great place to find shade on a Summer morning. These crags do not have the striking crack lines, smooth granite, and long routes of Castle Rock. Much of Mountain Rose Crags was dynamited to build the aqueduct, & this blasted rock varies in quality from solid to very decomposed. 8 sport routes & 2 trad routes ascend the quarried rock.
Per Tony B
: (legacy description prior to recent development, to provide prospective on the older climbs) This rock lies across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the Southwest. It faces somewhat Northeast and gets a little sun in the AM, I figure, although I have never been on it then. It does get some mid-day sun for sure. This rock is not to be confused with the solid, nice granite and long routes on Castle Rock. Its proximity to a good crag was not a contagion, and it is a fact that this rock is less desirable, with the right buttress being the least so. The cliff is also considerably smaller and closer than it appears to be at first.
The cliff has two main buttresses, Right and Left, as Rossiter refers to them in Boulder Canyon Climbs
- the difference between the two being self-explanatory. There are a few each of trad and sport lines. There are no must-do classics on this crag of which I am aware. There seem to be some "don't bother" lines, and some "Don't do them even if you are passing by" lines. My own personal experience at this crag has been negative. The one line that calls from below, 'Short But Sweet
' is a dihedral capped by a roof. This called me up to the crag but left me with a terrible taste in my mouth, particularly as my partner was rained on by kitty-litter-like rock for most of my time on the route.
Per Mark Rolofson
: the East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days
" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy
" (5.12b) a desperate slab.
The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner
These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.
The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.
L->R these may be: East Crag
A. Mountain Rose
, 10- R, 1p, 60', gear & gear.
B. Grizzly Rose
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Golden Rose
, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
D. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Yellow Tail
, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Steel Pulse
, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Big Tuna
, 11-, 1p, bolts.
H. Wyoming Prairie Dogs
, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. The Ancient Of Days
, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
J. Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
L. War Drums
, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
LM. Sick Puppy
, 12, 1p, 50', bolts. West Crag
N. Short Sport Route
, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
O. Short But Sweet
, 8, 1p, gear.
P Heat Wave
, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
Q. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner
, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).
From the right side of Castle Rock, cross the bridge & walk right along the base of Broken Rock. The first section is just above the stream. At High water flows it requires a short scramble on a slab to gain a path through the boulders. Follow the base of Broken Rock to its upper right side & the bouldering on the far right of The Overlook. Walk right (south) around a fallen tree & then back left uphill. Walk uphill for a few hundred feet to the flat path along the aqueduct. You will see several manhole covers & hear flowing water. Walk right (southwest) on this wide roadbed path for 400 feet to the left side of the East Mountain Rose Crag. Continue right to your chosen route.
This crag lies close to the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mountain Rose
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mountain Rose
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mountain Rose:
Steel Pulse 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Mountain Rose
The Ancient of Days 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Mountain Rose
A few different people warned me how crappy this crag was. Today I decided to see for myself.... While it is true that lots of the rock up here is like a rotten road cut, this route on the other hand was great. It is one of the best kept secrets in Boulder Canyon! Normally I wouldn't support the addition of 9 retro-bolts, but this route is great fun in its current condition. Hopefully it was bolted by the FA or at least with his permission? I would certainly recommend this to a beginner leader....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 15, 2015
Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 17, 2015
Based upon the above comments, I've gone ahead and reassigned this to Mark for editing.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2015
Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good.