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Mountain Rose

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient of Days, The S 
Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 
Big Tuna S 
Golden Rose S 
Grizzly Rose S 
Heat Wave S 
Hummingbird T 
Short But Sweet T 
Short Sport Route S 
Sick Puppy S 
Steel Pulse S 
War Drums T 
Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 
Yellow Tail S 

Mountain Rose  


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Location: 39.9788, -105.453 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,348
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on May 19, 2003
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Greg before the first bolt on Golden Rose.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Per Mark Rolofson: (amended at his request, to describe more recent developments there) The Mountain Rose crags are home to 11 sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12b and 6 trad lines from 5.5 to 5.10. The crags sit across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the south along the aqueduct path. These two side by side crags face Northwest and get afternoon sun. They are a great place to find shade on a Summer morning. These crags do not have the striking crack lines, smooth granite, and long routes of Castle Rock. Much of Mountain Rose Crags was dynamited to build the aqueduct, & this blasted rock varies in quality from solid to very decomposed. 8 sport routes & 2 trad routes ascend the quarried rock.

Per Tony B: (legacy description prior to recent development, to provide prospective on the older climbs) This rock lies across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the Southwest. It faces somewhat Northeast and gets a little sun in the AM, I figure, although I have never been on it then. It does get some mid-day sun for sure. This rock is not to be confused with the solid, nice granite and long routes on Castle Rock. Its proximity to a good crag was not a contagion, and it is a fact that this rock is less desirable, with the right buttress being the least so. The cliff is also considerably smaller and closer than it appears to be at first.

The cliff has two main buttresses, Right and Left, as Rossiter refers to them in Boulder Canyon Climbs - the difference between the two being self-explanatory. There are a few each of trad and sport lines. There are no must-do classics on this crag of which I am aware. There seem to be some "don't bother" lines, and some "Don't do them even if you are passing by" lines. My own personal experience at this crag has been negative. The one line that calls from below, 'Short But Sweet' is a dihedral capped by a roof. This called me up to the crag but left me with a terrible taste in my mouth, particularly as my partner was rained on by kitty-litter-like rock for most of my time on the route.

Per Mark Rolofson: the East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) a desperate slab.

The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner" (5.8).

These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.

The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.

L->R these may be:

East Crag

A. Mountain Rose?, 10- R, 1p, gear.
B. Grizzly Rose, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
D. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Yellow Tail, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Steel Pulse, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Big Tuna, 11-, 1p, bolts.
H. Wyoming Prairie Dogs, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. The Ancient Of Days, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
J. Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
K. Hummingbird, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
L. War Drums, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
LM. Sick Puppy, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

West Crag

N. Short Sport Route, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
O. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear.
P Heat Wave, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
Q. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).

Getting There 

From the right side of Castle Rock, cross the bridge & walk right along the base of Broken Rock. The first section is just above the stream. At High water flows it requires a short scramble on a slab to gain a path through the boulders. Follow the base of Broken Rock to its upper right side & the bouldering on the far right of The Overlook. Walk right (south) around a fallen tree & then back left uphill. Walk uphill for a few hundred feet to the flat path along the aqueduct. You will see several manhole covers & hear flowing water. Walk right (southwest) on this wide roadbed path for 400 feet to the left side of the East Mountain Rose Crag. Continue right to your chosen route.

History 

This crag lies close to the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mountain Rose:
The Ancient of Days   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
War Drums   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Wyoming Prairie Dogs   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Grizzly Rose   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Golden Rose   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Mountain Rose

Featured Route For Mountain Rose
Looking up Big Tuna crux pulls through that notch ...

Big Tuna 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
This is a pretty fun route. It is a little crumbly down low, but it won't slow you down. This route had a strange, alternating height-dependence to it. At first, I felt too tall and cramped under a bulge followed by a big reach and hard to reach clips. This odd pattern continued right through the improbable looking roof near the top. After heaving myself over the lip, I looked down and noticed two jugs that had hidden from me. Anyway, the crux overhang is fun, and there is certainly more t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Mountain Rose Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 15, 2015
Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 17, 2015
Based upon the above comments, I've gone ahead and reassigned this to Mark for editing.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2015
Agreed. I'd think it most appropriate to edit this page without completely changing the expressed opinions. I think appropriate amendment is in order though. The Admins are welcome to referee that. I'm not terribly invested in it one way or the other, other that to insure that a reader is informed that there are still some older, particularly loose/dangerous/low quality climbs up there and not to get onto any given climb expecting that they are all good.
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