Greg before the first bolt on Golden Rose.
This rock lies across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the Southwest. It faces somewhat Northeast and gets a little sun in the AM, I figure, although I have never been on it then. It does get some mid-day sun for sure. This rock is not to be confused with the solid, nice granite and long routes on Castle Rock. Its proximity to a good crag was not a contagion, and it is a fact that this rock is less desirable, with the right buttress being the least so. The cliff is also considerably smaller and closer than it appears to be at first.
The cliff has two main buttresses, Right and Left, as Rossiter refers to them in Boulder Canyon Climbs
- the difference between the two being self-explanatory. There are a few each of trad and sport lines. There are no must-do classics on this crag of which I am aware. There seem to be some "don't bother" lines, and some "Don't do them even if you are passing by" lines. My own personal experience at this crag has been negative. The one line that calls from below, 'Short But Sweet
' is a dihedral capped by a roof. This called me up to the crag but left me with a terrible taste in my mouth, particularly as my partner was rained on by kitty-litter-like rock for most of my time on the route. Addendum: a number of these routes have been retrobolted.
L->R these may be:
A. Mountain Rose?, 10- R, 1p, gear.
B. Grizzly Rose
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Golden Rose
, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
D? Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
E? Yellow Tail
, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
F? Unknown, 11, 1p, gear.
G? Big Tuna
, 11-, 1p, bolts.
H? Wyoming Prairie Dogs
, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
I. The Ancient Of Days
, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
J. Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
L. War Drums
, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
LM. Sick Puppy?, 12, 1p, bolts.
N. Short Sport Route
, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
O. Heatwave?, 10, 1p.
P? Short But Sweet
, 8, 1p, gear.
Q? Heat Wave
, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
R. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner
, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).
From Castle Rock, look over the stream and uphill. You can clearly see the crag. Go left (South East) from the direct river crossing to catch a good talus field to ascend up and right to the crag at its right edge. At the base you will encounter the covered aqueduct, which at first glance appears to be an old road- until of course you hit the manhole cover. This "road" makes a nice trail along the base that goes completely the length of anything you might consider worthy of climbing.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Mountain Rose
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mountain Rose:
War Drums 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Golden Rose 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Mountain Rose
War Drums 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Boulder Canyon
: Mountain Rose
This is a great climb. I hope this one doesn't get "modernized" as it wouldn't be as fun without the fear factor.The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Mountain Rose
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 4, 2014
Since 2003, when Tony Bubb submitted this page, much has changed at this crag. There weren't many routes here, and the existing ones were sparsely bolted with no top anchors. Several routes have retro-bolted, and many more have been added.
It's a fun crag with a nice selection of sport routefrom 5.8 to 5.12b. "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) is one of best slab climbs in Boulder Canyon.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2014
Mark - would you want control of the page to add content with regards to those matters? If so, I can turn it over to you for editing.