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Mount Whitney East Buttress in May
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By JDS86
Feb 8, 2012

Any thoughts on climbing this route in May? Not looking to do the route in down mittens and mountain boots. Unfortunately this is the only month this year I can make it happen. Really want a straight forward 5.6-5.7 climb. Definitely bringing crampons and axes, but if it gets nasty, will probably have to bail. If anyone has experience here in May, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Gracias.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Feb 8, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

May is typically the first month of my High Sierra alpine rock season (I'm not fond of the cold or snow slogs) and even with last year's record snowfall we did the N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak in late May with only a few encounters with snow/ice on the harder sections. So far the Sierra snowpack is nowhere near what it was last year. The E Buttress is a short, very mellow route. Watch the Whitney Portal forum for conditions on the approach/MR descent as it gets closer.

I also would recommend posting the same question on summitpost. There are a lot more Sierra climbers on there. Good luck!


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Feb 11, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Here is my friend Ben's, trip report with current conditions.


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By aran
Feb 13, 2012
Matterhorn Peak, November 2011

Thanks for the link- beautiful little TR for an epic day.


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