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The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.
To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Stuart Range and Vicinity
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stuart Range and Vicinity:
Sherpa Glacier 4th 1 2 I M 1b Mod. Snow Snow, 2800'
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, Grade III
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 900'
South Headwall 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 18 pitches, 1200'
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 20 pitches, 2000'
Gorillas in the Mist 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000'
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a WI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, 9415'
Featured Route For Stuart Range and Vicinity
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a WA : Central-East Cascades & Wen... : Stuart Range and Vicinity
From the notch above the Stuart Glacier, 11(ish, depends on how you do it) pitches of low/mid 5th class with one move of 5.7 will take you to the base of the Gendarme. This involves a lot of fun, exposed, easy climbing on bomber rock. Despite this, the best pitches are on the Gendarme. Above the base of the pillar, are two crux 5.9 pitches. The first one is a steep fingers and hands dihedral with good rests between harder sections of climbing. From here, traverse to the offwidth and grunt up...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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