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Mount Stuart and Vicinity
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist 
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge 
South Headwall 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 
West Ridge 

Mount Stuart and Vicinity 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,415'
Page Views: 24,034. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Western slopes of Mount Stuart from Ingalls lake. ...

Description 

The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.


Getting There 

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Stuart and Vicinity:
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge   5.4     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
West Ridge   5.6     Trad, Grade III   
South Headwall   5.7     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II   
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme   5.9     Trad, 18 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme   5.9+     Trad, 20 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade IV   
Gorillas in the Mist   5.11- Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   
Girth Pillar   5.11c WI2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, 9415 feet, Grade V   
Browse More Classics in Mount Stuart and Vicinity

Featured Route For Mount Stuart and Vicinity
This shows the approach and start.

The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme 5.9+  WA : Leavenworth : Mount Stuart and Vicinity
The Direct North Ridge combines the North Ridge from the notch with an extra 800 feet of fun climbing. Although loose in spots and somewhat lichen covered, the route offers those looking for a longer, harder day than the North Ridge good solid 5.9+ climbing. It will obviously be faster to simulclimb, my partner and I did this and completed the entire route in 6.5 hours, but the belays for each pitch take good gear and have decent stances. Roughly the first 3 pitches are the hardest. 1: Climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA


Photos of Mount Stuart and Vicinity Slideshow Add Photo
Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.

BETA PHOTO: Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.

Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.

Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.

South Face from Ingalls lake

South Face from Ingalls lake

Sunrise from Goat Pass

Sunrise from Goat Pass

A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the background

A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the backg...

Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart

Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart

little panorama from the top

little panorama from the top