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Mount Magazine State Park
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Mount Magazine State Park 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 20, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Sign at the trailhead from the parking lot.

Description 

Arkansas crag. Lots of sport and trad ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+. 90+ developed routes. Tallest routes top out at 80'. Many can be top roped. Camping is available with water and electricity hookups for $14 a night. Primitive sites are not available. A new lodge is also open if you want to stay in a hotel room.


Getting There 

Near Paris Arkansas. Go to the top of Mount Magazine on the South Side. There is a visitor center that you need to register at before climbing. They should be able to give you very specific directions. Park at the Hang Glider Launch Site. Walk west untill you see a sign that marks the climbers trail. Follow this until you find a good tree to rap over the edge down the wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Magazine State Park:
Junior Achievement   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Crag Central
Cruise Control   5.7     Trad, 45 feet   Crag Central
Right to Flight/ The Nose   5.9     Trad, 80 feet   Crag Central
Radical Changes   5.9     Trad, 70 feet   The Hallucinogen Wall
Multi Colored Poptart   5.9     Sport   Breakfast Wall
Solitare   5.10a     Trad, 45 feet   Black on Blond Wall
Lycrophilia   5.10a     Sport, 30 feet   First Wall
Sonya Come Home   5.10c     Sport, 55 feet   Crag Central
Mirage De Sade   5.11a     Sport, 70 feet   The Hallucinogen Wall
French Connection   5.11b     Sport, 50 feet   Crag Central
Viva Las Vegas   5.11d     Sport, 65 feet   Crag Central
Start Flailing   5.11d     Sport, 30 feet   First Wall
Browse More Classics in Mount Magazine State Park

Featured Route For Mount Magazine State Park
route photo

Right to Flight/ The Nose 5.9  AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central
A mega classic for sure! As overhanging as this one is the climbing never gets as difficult as it looks. It is committing and scary on lead but it protects well and the holds are all there. Starts off climbing up easy terrain up to the roof. Plug in some cams or whatever and climb out on the diving board and go for the top. Very fun!! If you fall on the final head wall you will catch major air. - NOTE- It is hard to clean this route when the leader tops out and is best to anchor for the top and ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AR


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By Wayne Monnett
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 7, 2011

Passed through the area coming from CO and loved the rock. Didn't have time to bust out most of the area but there is a BUNCH of new routes someone has bolted up, real new real nice, and if anyone local to the are has time it would be awesome to see a little bit more info of the are come up

By Curly Zach
Nov 4, 2012

We passed through this area on the way back (sorta) to DFW from Sam's Throne. We had a great short time here and climbed Junior Achievement and Cruise Control. Here is the beta: The rock climber's trail sign in the lodge parking lot APPEARS TO POINT TO AN ABOVE CRAG TRAIL THAT DEAD ENDS! An arrow would be nice on the sign. The trail actually is to the right of the sign and descends a staircase like feature that is very hard to see from ground level. The guidebook doesn't mention this. We ended up with an epic approach, consisting of 2 tree rappels, one of which over a ledge.