Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

The Santa Catalina Mountains are more commonly known among climbers and non-climbers alike as, simply, Mount Lemmon. Although Mount Lemmon is only one of many peaks within the Santa Catalina range, its name has been casually applied to the range as a whole for some time.

Mount Lemmon, rising to an elevation of 9,157 feet above sea level, offers some of the best climbing in Arizona. More than 1,500 climbing routes can be found on the mountain, making it one of the most popular climbing areas in the state. With crags located at elevations ranging from 2,500-9,000', comfortable climbing temps can be found year round.

While the vast majority of the climbs in this area are accessed by the Catalina Highway, there are parts of the range accessed otherwise. This area has been organized based on access and geographical location.

Be aware of the many objective dangers that inhabit these mountains... loose rock, old hardware, extreme heat and cold, bark scorpions, gila monsters, lightning, multiple species of rattlesnakes and, perhaps most importantly, flash floods. Stay out of arroyos and major drainages, particularly during the monsoon season of July-August! Flash floods can present a lethal danger, even when skies are clear in your immediate locale.

Finally, be advised that many climbing areas within the Santa Catalinas are closed seasonally (mainly January-July) for protection of peregrine falcons and bighorn sheep. We have made every effort to note closures and restrictions within those specific areas on this site, so please do your homework before planning a trip.

Getting There

The Santa Catalina Mountains are located immediately north of Tucson, and are accessible by a few different routes. See inidividual areas within the Santa Catalinas for more detailed information.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains):

Slippery When Wet 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Windy Point West : North Fin

In Lightning 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet Mid-Mountain : The Druid

Agatha Christie (Direct) 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet Windy Point West : North Fin

R4 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Windy Point East : Rupley Towers

Old Man 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Windy Point West : South Fin

Chihuahua Power 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Bear Canyon : Lost Hawk

Steel Crazy 5.9 Sport, 4 pitches, 450 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress

Centerpiece 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Bear Canyon : Chimney Rock

Single Lens Reflex 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Bear Canyon : Chimney Rock

Lizard Marmalade Direct 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 135 feet Windy Point East : Punch and Judy Towers

Steve's Arete 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Windy Point East : Hunchback Pinnacle

Histoplasmosis 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Windy Point West : North Fin

Hard Day at The Orifice 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress

Tsunami 5.12 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Windy Point East : New Wave Wall

Orifice Politics 5.12 Sport, 105 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress

Sentenced To Hang 5.12c Sport, 50 feet Lower Highway : Jailhouse Rock

Golden Beaver 5.12+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Windy Point West : Beaver Wall

Golden Beaver Left 5.13- Trad, 60 feet Windy Point West : Beaver Wall

Coup de' tat 5.13 Sport, 100 feet Summit Crags : The Fortress

Hebe 5.14- Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Windy Point West : Beaver Wall

Photos of Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

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Look out for these guys!	Chrysicolla and Fishhook Pincushion Cactus (Mammil...	If you are climbing at Mt Lemon, you will probably...
Aerial photo of the East end of Catalinas. Some cr...	Eric Deschamps showing us how Mt Lemmon ice is don...	Cathedral Rock (7,952 ft) from my balcony
Rattlesnake Peak (6,653 ft.)	Some of the local legends, ...or the usual suspect...	Lived in AZ for 25yrs, seen hundreds of rattlesnak...
rattlesnake den near catalina state park (maybe), ...	rattlesnake den near catalina state park (maybe), ...	The view from high on the northwest slopes of Moun...
Simply perfect...	"Golden Hour"	Part of the wonderful light show over the Catalina...
Wide eye.	Having some fun on the cell blocks	A superb lieback crack at sun spots. Gosh the uppe...
Tower Solo at Sunset	On top of the second pitch of Scorpion king.

Comments on Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2012

By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 19, 2010

Thanks for re-organizing this, looks great!

By Andrew Haag
From: Arizona
Aug 18, 2010

A little Mt Lemmon beta for everyone to enjoy.

www.xtranormal.com/watch/6948097/

By 1Eric Rhicard
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 18, 2010

That is some funny shit Andrew. I thought you were working construction, but you are going to film school. Good for you! Ha Ha

By Ken Isaacson
Sep 6, 2010

Mt. Lemmon can't be a decent place to climb when there are headless bodies being found in the Arizona desert.

By ryan dillon
From: Tucson, AZ.
Sep 6, 2010

That's just what happens when you get caught adding bolts to an existing route or taking the biners from the anchors.

By Charles Vernon
From: Florence, AZ
Sep 6, 2010

Ken, Mt. Lemmon is one of our "sky islands" that rises far above the Sonoran desert and is therefore a safe haven from the epidemic--the ORGY--of beheading that's been going on around here. But I might add that the desert regions themselves are getting safer--Jan Brewer has did everything she can.

By Ken Isaacson
Sep 7, 2010

Say what you will. I trust the governor. Elected officials never lie. I'll just take my Bosch and my swag, and go where I can be appreciated.

By mariaji
Jul 31, 2011

2 weeks ago there was a momma bird sitting in a moss nest at the Lower Wall on one of the first holds of a route to the far right (don't know the name of it).
Somebody decided to either move/discard the nest. Would have been nice to just leave her alone and pick a different line for the time that she needed to be there.

By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 17, 2011

Someone has scattered rat poison around the base of The Orifice Wall here on Mt. Lemmon, presumably to kill the mice that occasionally raid lunches. This is obviously NOT COOL. Whomever did it obviously wasn't thinking about the squirrels, chipmunks, birds, reptiles that eat them, and other people's dogs. We may not like for animals to get into our things, but this is their habitat-- even the mice-- not ours. Not that any rangers would ever know about it, but this would also be a great way to get access to a crag taken away. Everyone there today was on the same page that this is VERY bad form by some fellow climber. Whoever you are, please don't be an embarrassment to our sport or a menace to the environment again.

By aaron voreis
Feb 23, 2012

Hi I will be in Tucson next week and am looking to get out climbing. I have a flexible schedule and would like to get down to Cochise if possible. I am a very competent, yet out of shape climber who would like to stay in the 5.8-5.9 rang. I don't mind taking a competent intermediate climber out.

Thanks!
Aaron

e-mail
aaronvoreis@gmail.com
or text 612+759+1876

By jborof
Mar 9, 2012

Never climbed in the area. Wondering if anyone can recommend some crags and camping. I will be with my kids, 5&8 yrs. burgeoning climbers who really like a short approach! Single pitch would be best. Any advice?
Cheers
Josh

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Mar 10, 2012

Prison Camp/Jailhouse might work, there's camping there but usually full. Molino Basin lower should have spots.

Also Hairpin Turn, though watch the runouts on some of the older climbs. Also some are mixed but on MP as sport.

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Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

Description

Getting There

The Classics