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Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville)

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5.13/Weeping Wall 
Big Butte 
Bonsai Crag 
Far East, The 
Flying Pig Wall 
Hidden Valley 
High and Away Crag 
Lower Wall 
Middle East, The 
Nose, The 
OTID Rock 
Tortuga 
Turtle Island 
West Wall 
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Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville)  


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Elevation: 1,500'
Location: 48.87893, -119.4092 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,513
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: applewood on Jun 20, 2013
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Mark beginning "Terrapin Station" at Tur...

climbing is on public land, parking and access is not MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The SW face of Mt Hull, along the east side of the northern Okanogan Valley, is a huge open area with many distinct cliffs and potential for thousands of routes. Most of these cliffs are on public lands (BLM and Forest Service), yet all the access is via private lands (except for the public Whistler Canyon trailhead to the north). There are several possible access points - the shorter more direct ones are by permission of landowner, on an individual basis only. Currently the only recommended public access is from the north (from Whistler Canyon Trailhead, turn right off of trail #100 after about 3/4 mile and head through the South Canyon for about a mile), or from the County Gravel pit about a mile south of Whistler Canyon Trailhead.

These cliffs are dry and open (extensively burned in the early part of the century), and range in elevation from 1300 to 2600'. There is abundant wildlife in the area, but watch out for rattle snakes from mid April to October!

Currently there are about 100 routes (mostly sport, some mixed, and a few trad), on fine quality gneiss, ranging from 5.2 to 5.11+, between 50' and 2 pitches long. Generally the bolting ethic calls for using gear when available and safe, but there are some exceptions... The route grading (especially in the lower grades) tends to follow old school standards, rather than newer and softer trends. There is also an abundance of loose rock around the existing routes so helmets are advisable.

  • Note to all climbers even though this is a somewhat remote area and off the beaten path, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette and don't place bolts next to possible gear placements. Ideally make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible, and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.

  • Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.

The established areas include (listed from the south to north);
High and Away Crag - Due east of The Far East on the Upper Bench (below the huge upper East Wall).
The Far East - Remote wall east of Big Butte with great rock and the best route at Hull ("Lost World").
The Middle East - On the way to the Far East from Big Butte (undeveloped)
Big Butte - A wide variety of easy to moderate routes, sport, mixed and trad.
Lower Wall - A short pleasant crag with a few great routes on uniquely featured rock.
Bonsai Crag - Easy access, short and a bit crumbly but steep and fun.
West Wall - Moderate sport and mixed climbing, in a great location
The Nose - Easy to moderate climbing, sport, mixed and trad, with a short approach.
OTID Rock - "Oroville Tonasket Irrigation District" parcel just beside and north of the main orchard parking area. Close and fun.
5.13/Weeping Wall - The shortest approach and the hardest routes...
Boundary Wall - (undeveloped)
Hidden Valley - Isolated with great rock and mostly hard sport climbs
Flying Pig Wall - Easy climbs next to Turtle Island. A good shaded beginner crag.
Turtle Island - Beautiful location mostly moderate climbs, sport, mixed and trad.
Tortuga - The west end of Turtle Island.
Far Tortuga - oldest routes on Hull (pre-fire development)

Getting There 

Located about 12 miles North of Tonasket on Hwy 97.

There are several possible access points - the shorter more direct ones are by permission of landowner, on an individual basis only - the only public access is from the north (from Whistler Canyon Trailhead, turning right off of trail #100 after about 3/4 mile and heading through the South Canyon for about a mile to the north end of the SW face ("Far Tortuga"), or from the County Gravel pit about a mile south of Whistler Canyon Trailhead, which reduces the approach by about two miles);

The first area developed after the fire, and one of the most prominent cliffs as you drive from Tonasket, is BIG BUTTE (aka BIG BUTT) – The large S and W facing cliff at mid level (just west of the unburned fir and pine valley), prominently visible NE of the fruit stand (just north of the new native smoke shack/gas station). Approach time about 20 minute. TURTLE ISLAND is a further 10 minute hike N, about 1/2 mile from the base of BIG BUTTE W face. It has a variety of rock in a lovely unburned forest. FAR TORTUGA is located another couple of minutes walk north around the west face. BOUNDARY WALL is the long W facing cliff between TURTLE ISLAND and BIG BUTTE, with HIDDEN VALLEY is on it’s East side, while BENCH ROCK (the higher large west-facing cliff) is about ¼ mile further East.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

77 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',43],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',13],['5.8',14],['5.9',13],['5.10',13],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville)
Mark on the first ascent of Venus of Okanogan 5.7 ...

VENUS OF OKANOGAN 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  WA : Okanogan : ... : Big Butte - South Face
VENUS OF OKANOGAN 5.7 **** 90’ M (9b)Begin 5‘ left of the “Why Raincoats Are Yellow” crack and climb directly up. Pass the short lower diagonal corner on the right and climb the face above, then head left for the arete (avoiding the Raincoats route completely), 2 chain anchors (brown) are above (10’ 3rd class scramble) just below the top lip. Several medium and small cams are needed throughout between the bolts. Excellent variety of climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville) Slideshow Add Photo
Mt Hull (SW Face) - North End
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull (SW Face) - North End
Mt Hull (SW Face) - South End
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull (SW Face) - South End
Mt Hull - overview
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hull - overview
View South down Okanogan Valley from lower Mt Hull...
View South down Okanogan Valley from lower Mt Hull...
Turtle Island from the top of West Wall
Turtle Island from the top of West Wall
Mt Hull's upper slope of the lower SW Face
Mt Hull's upper slope of the lower SW Face
Climber on "SE Buttress Left Side" (5.4 ...
Climber on "SE Buttress Left Side" (5.4 ...
Spring flowers on Mt Hull's lower SW Face
Spring flowers on Mt Hull's lower SW Face
High and Away Crag - one of several crags (so-far ...
High and Away Crag - one of several crags (so-far ...
Jenny starting up "Magic Theatre" (5.8 *...
Jenny starting up "Magic Theatre" (5.8 *...
Mark in the middle of Butteous Maximus (5.7+**, on...
BETA PHOTO: Mark in the middle of Butteous Maximus (5.7+**, on...
Jenny on "Isle of Everywhere" (5.8 ***),...
Jenny on "Isle of Everywhere" (5.8 ***),...
View south down the Okanogan from the top of the W...
View south down the Okanogan from the top of the W...
Mt Hull - West Wall
Mt Hull - West Wall
Mark on first ascent of "Venus of Okanogan&qu...
Mark on first ascent of "Venus of Okanogan&qu...
Looking north to Turtle Island from the top of Wes...
Looking north to Turtle Island from the top of Wes...
End of the day view down the Okanogan Valley
End of the day view down the Okanogan Valley
Big Horn Sheep atop West Wall
Big Horn Sheep atop West Wall
Turtle Island and Hidden Valley from the top of th...
BETA PHOTO: Turtle Island and Hidden Valley from the top of th...
Big Butte Topo
BETA PHOTO: Big Butte Topo
A large group of California Big Horn Sheep - on th...
A large group of California Big Horn Sheep - on th...

Comments on Mount Hull - Lower SW Face (Oroville) Add Comment
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By Glenda
Jul 4, 2014
Can anyone tell me if there are any old caves that are located of FS#3525
Anyplace in the vicinity of Summit Lake or any place in the immediate area ?
I have a local neighbor who claims there is a cave up there and it has pictographs on the wall that was placed there by early Native Americans late 1800's ??
Any one with info on this please give me a holler.
I would love to explore these since I live right by there.
Thankyou.
Glenda
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