Mount Gimli Rock Climbing
Alpenglow on Gimli at sundown. The south ridge is ...
In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.
Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli Peak...no rope required"). APPROACH
It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 15 miles of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stout-hearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 3 miles to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.
MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY DESCENT
Approach from Slocan, British Columbia
From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).
The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)
I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge
, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge
. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
Climbing Season For the Columbia Mountains area.
Weather station 15.7 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Gimli
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Gimli
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Gimli :
South Ridge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'
Featured Route For Mount Gimli
BETA PHOTO: Red: Lusting after Women, 5.10d Black: South Face,...
Pitch 3 of Lichen It (5.10d)
Goats at the base of Mt Gimli
BETA PHOTO: GIMLI, WEST FACE, RIGHT Anyone got beta?
Third pitch on Space Jam - New 5.11+ trad route on...
Pitch 1 of Lichen It 5.10d (Mt Gimli)
Gimli from the beginning of the approach