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Mount Gimli

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Mount Gimli  Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 49.7655, -117.6478 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,766
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 28, 2010
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Alpenglow on Gimli at sundown. The south ridge is ...

In Scandinavian mythology Gimli is heaven, the most beautiful place on Earth. Rock climbers might agree.

Mount Gimli was first climbed in 1963 by Mrs H Butling, R Deane, M Stewart, and P Williams via the East Ridge (Putnam, 1971, "Gimli rope required").

It is fortuitous that the most beautiful of the Valhalla Mountains requires the shortest approach hike. Begin with 15 miles of logging road, usually okay for any car with a stout-hearted driver. Then a steep, but well groomed, trail climbs about 3 miles to the toe of Mt Gimli's South Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach from Slocan, British Columbia
Approach from Slocan, British Columbia

Rock Climbing Photo: GIMLI'S EAST SIDE

Rock Climbing Photo: WEST FACE ROUTES

Rock Climbing Photo: WEST FACE-LEFT SIDE

Rock Climbing Photo: GIMLI DESCENTS

From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).

The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)

I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
Rock Climbing Photo: GOAT TRAIL


Climbing Season

Weather station 15.7 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Gimli

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Gimli :
South Ridge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mount Gimli

Featured Route For Mount Gimli
Rock Climbing Photo: South Ridge, First Pitch Photo by Peter Rowat Fami...

South Ridge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Mount Gimli
HISTORY In 1974, a Kamloops expedition choppered in with three children, a sitter, and enough friends to climb everything worth climbing. This route was attempted, and all the members listed above did the first two pitches before weather forced a retreat. That september Peter Rowat and Peter Koedt returned to finish the ridge. MOUNT GIMLI'S SOUTH RIDGE Peter Rowat and company made the first one day ascent of Mount Slesse's Northeast Buttress, 5th overall, during the early seventies. What follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mount Gimli Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red: Lusting after Women, 5.10d Black: South Face,...
BETA PHOTO: Red: Lusting after Women, 5.10d Black: South Face,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of Lichen It (5.10d)
Pitch 3 of Lichen It (5.10d)
Rock Climbing Photo: Goats at the base of Mt Gimli
Goats at the base of Mt Gimli
Rock Climbing Photo: RIGHT SIDE, WEST FACE
Rock Climbing Photo: GIMLI, WEST FACE, RIGHT  Anyone got beta?
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch on Space Jam - New 5.11+ trad route on...
Third pitch on Space Jam - New 5.11+ trad route on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Lichen It 5.10d (Mt Gimli)
Pitch 1 of Lichen It 5.10d (Mt Gimli)
Rock Climbing Photo: Gimli from the beginning of the approach
Gimli from the beginning of the approach

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