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MT GIMLI ROUTE SUMMARY
From the true summit, descend the East Ridge via steep class III downclimbing. The crux is at the top. Down low, a barrier cliff prevents easily returning to gear stashed at the base. If you carry your hiking shoes and packs up the route, then it should be possible to rejoin the trail near the bivouac (Green).
The local guide book describes a short-cut to the base of the SE Ridge route: "Two 60-meter rappels will deliver you back to the start of the South Ridge (Kristiansen & Hempsall, 2009)." (Black)
I have observed both mountain goats and people using an even better shortcut to Gimli's East Ridge, passing right by the first belay on the South Ridge. This is probably worth a try. Maybe one short rappel at the crux (blue).
7 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Gimli :
South Ridge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'
Featured Route For Mount Gimli
South Ridge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 North America : Canada : ... : Mount Gimli
HISTORY In 1974, a Kamloops expedition choppered in with three children, a sitter, and enough friends to climb everything worth climbing. This route was attempted, and all the members listed above did the first two pitches before weather forced a retreat. That september Peter Rowat and Peter Koedt returned to finish the ridge. MOUNT GIMLI'S SOUTH RIDGE Peter Rowat and company made the first one day ascent of Mount Slesse's Northeast Buttress, 5th overall, during the early seventies. What follow...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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