Mount Douglas-East Face Rock Climbing
main face at Mount Doug
The East Face of Mount Douglas is the obvious crag located directly in front of the Welsford Golf course. It was rediscovered in 2010 and since a trail has been put in and over 25 routes have been established. The climbing here is on granite but despite the rock type, most routes here have bolts around the crux. One exception is the 3 stars all trad hand crack called Idoprofen. It is probably the best route at Mount Douglas.
Les Dalles de St-Anselme is an extension to the east face of Mount Douglas and offers high quality slab climbing on pristine stone. The grades are moderate here and the bolts are close so this would be a good place to start leading routes.
In front of the golf course is the newly built overpath for the highway bypass. Driver under it and park at the pullout near the woods Look for a trail on the left end of the pullout and follow the pink blazes all the way to the crag (15-20 mins.) The dalles the St-Anselme are located 5 minutes further on the climber's right when you get to the main face.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 14.8 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mount Douglas-East Face
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mount Douglas-East Face:
Featured Route For Mount Douglas-East Face
Cornifluge 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b North America
: ... : Main Face
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just left of Split Decision in the right-most alcove. Climb up the face and slopey arête that leads to a horizontal crack. After the crack climb up the overhang using crimps. Finish on the same pine tree as Serpents volants....[more] Browse More Classics in International