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Sweet Rock
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Mounds 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Diesen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,228
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Sep 14, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Janelle Pierce on lead pulling the last move to th...

Description 

WARNING!!! DUE TO SUSPECT ROCK THE GENERAL CONSENSUS FOR THIS ROUTE IS R/X.

Climb over a series of mounds to a scary looking block. Carefully pull over this block staying slightly left of the bolts to the top. This block is large and looks like it could come off so be very careful. The roof above wants to push you off. Step right and pull over the roof (crux). Now climb the series of overhanging mounds above to the anchors.


Location 

Right of Gobstopper. Climbs the center of the alcove to the top.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Mounds Slideshow Add Photo
Karen with the onsight of Mounds.
Karen with the onsight of Mounds.
Comments on Mounds Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2012
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2009

I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.

This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the bolters have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers.

By CaseyK
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 27, 2010

Any word on the giant X in chalk about half way up? It's on a big fat piece of stone that would be a great hold but we all avoided for fear it might be loose.

By joedeltron
Mar 15, 2010

A layback flake peeled off my lead climber recently and the rest of the route is definately suspect. Super fun but it still has cleaning to do but I think eventually it will be clean and safe. Watch the rock with the x on it, don't even touch it

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 16, 2010

If you like bad rock you can get your fix in a million places in So. Az, but why put up a moderate sport route through crap rock? At least one person has already gotten hurt as a result, and it has the potential to be a lot worse.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2011

This route has literally at least 3 TV sized blocks waiting to come off...

By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2011

Charles has it nailed above. I couldn't agree more.

When a guy with over 30 years experience guiding in the Tetons leads a pitch and then calls down that it's a dangerous pile, he ends up rapping and cleaning the route because not one of us had any interest in even a TR on it.

Too bad, it's a great position on the wall but not all rock is meant to be climbed.

Truthfully, the bolts should be pulled before someone gets killed.
A route like this has no place at a sport cliff. There are plenty of places to get your freak on with a head lead. But not at a clip and go area. It makes no sense. There's a good potential for a new leader to get on this with a tragic result.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 29, 2011

Mike, here's my $0.02. If i remember correctly, we're talking about the 15' or so foot section of poor rock right in the middle/deepest part of the route. Go up and pry loose everything you can. Once it's absolutely safe from loose rock and if there's still enough left to climb, leave it. If you just can't dig down to good rock, maybe you should take it down. I'm playing devil's advocate here but think about it this way: if someone get's hurt this weekend from rockfall on this route, how would you feel? We've heard lots of votes for either cleaning up the big, obvious death blocks or removing it and some heavy hitters have chimed in with their feelings on it.

By azclimbingrocks
Apr 29, 2011

Sometimes you just have to let go of the attachment to routes.
Accept that you have put up plenty of good fun climbs and the occasional bummer. That route always looked really good to me but after these comments, I won't go near it.

Like Daryl says, how would you feel...
No reason to take this stuff personally Mike. It's not like you went out of your way to find and bolt some choss. That 5.7 of yours off to the left is great fun, well thought out, nicely bolted, etc...

I don't know about pulling the bolts because someone else will end up putting a route up there. It's too big a piece of blank rock. But certainly clean off anything loose.

By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 4, 2011

I appreciate everyones feedback. Some routes are great fun and some are too scary to go near. As individual climbers we all get to decide which routes fit into which category.

By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 4, 2011

Note the route description and rating have been updated until I can get back out there to inspect the route further.

By b-rox
Jan 29, 2012

I thought this was a great route but the mortar added to the death block did not inspire confidence. A little work with prybar and hammer might be the ticket

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great route, too bad for the loose rock, otherwise this one would get 3 stars. This is the best line on Sweet Rock, imo, in terms of movement.

I don't give this one a safety rating; the route is well protected and a lead fall is therefore not likely to result in injury. (I suppose a lead climber could be injured by a block that has come off, during the fall) Your belayer, however, needs to belay well off to the side and should wear a helmet. In that sense, the route can be R/X for the belayer.