This isn't the best route but it's certainly worth doing if you're in the area. It's not as loose as it looks from the ground, if that's any consolation, and the moves are generally juggy and fun.
Motley Cruise is the leftmost of the trio of 5.11s on the far left sector of Bauhaus Wall and starts out in an acute dihedral before lumbering over a blocky roof feature. Amble up the well-featured face above, stopping at anchors below the giant roof band.
This was originally intended as a first pitch to a route through the big roof, which has yet to see any climbing action. Any takers?
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 14, 2003
this one is only an ok warm-up, since it starts a bit hard, and the first clip is off the deck. it actually takes a tiny bit of figgerin, so if this is your out-of-the-sleeping-bag climb, wake up first.
oh, there's also a big loose block at the top, with an"X" on it, but I didn't see the "X" till after I was past it. there's an easy way left to the anchors, and a harder way to the right. the block is, unfortunately, in the easy path. just a heads up.
|By Evan Winn|
May 7, 2012
Just tried this route for the first time. It seemed a bit harder than 11b. Quite a bit harder than Choss Temple Pilots even. Was I totaly lost on the route, or do the 5 large, well-chalked blocks on the ground have something to do with it?