Motion Fascination  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Andy Petefish, KC Baum, and Scott Croll, 3/88 Submitted By:  Matthew Seymour on Feb 1, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Climb up the corner on the left and move right to the first bolt. Continue up to a horizontal crack and protect with a TCU. Then climb up and mantle to a good stance on a dike. Protect with a small TCU and continue up past a few bolts making a difficult mantle to another dike. Continue up the slab past bolts to the top, breaking left at the last bolt.

The beginning of this climb is a little contrived, but the top half is excellent. The climbing is on really nicely featured stone.

Location 

Located on the detached pillar just right of Sweet Sunday Serenade. There are three routes with bolts up this. This climb is the middle one. Also, it is the one with homemade hangers.

Rap from two bolt anchor.

Protection 

Bolts plus a few small TCUs (maybe 0 and 1 Metolius?).