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From the block move into a horizontal crack with your right and get a good jam so that you can reach way out over the lip onto the face and some good holds. Some toe cams in the crack ease the transition to the overhanging face. Fun big moves on good holds take you up the face to the top. The worst part about the problem is that at times you feel like you could barndoor right into the boulder next to you.
On the hanging boulder that faces the finish to Beefcake/Beautiful Gecko. Starts on a block below the right hand side of the overhanging face.
Pads and spotter
Trinity Zyss rounding the corner of Mothership Con...
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
May 21, 2011