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The Outrage Wall
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Mothership Connection 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith & Adam Knoff
Page Views: 2,535
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2009

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Josh Robinson on 1st pitch- Mothership Connection ...

Description 

Mothership Connection is the sweet tufa route up the gently overhanging face left of the Bronco Bowl and right of Time For Livin'. Begin by scrambling up the large flake/left-facing corner in the center of the Outrage Wall. From the teetering blocks on the top of this flake, reach up and clip the first bolt. Don't be confused by the left-hand bolt line which is British Invasion (12a); though that route still allows access to the same belay and offers higher quality climbing.

The original first pitch is 11d, 100' long, and follows a grey streak leads to a stance belay below the tufas. The rock is like velcro, and up high is a stout, thin crux moving left a ways above a bolt.

The second pitch is the money pitch. Move up and left off the belay as the wall steadily steepens above. A series of brown and white tufas leads to a cruxy traverse move right to a black tufa. Immediately after this a pumpy shake precedes a V7/8 boulder problem off an undercling that ends at a flake-jug. This is unquestionably the crux and may be easier for longer wingspans. From here continue up outrageous tufas passing a few rests and a final steep section to the anchor, which is located in a large hueco.

Make sure to have a 70m cord for lowering off the second pitch. A 60 is fine for the first pitch. The whole thing has been climbed from the ground in one 230' pitch; this requires over 25 draws, plenty of slings, and is best done by starting with British Invasion.

The history of this route is interesting: The first ascensionists used several glued-on holds to help with the rightwards traverse and also the boulder problem crux and rated the route 13a. Knowing the climb still went without those holds, sometime between 2009 and 2015 a Mexican climber went up and chiseled them off upping the grade of the route to mid-5.13. In January 2016 I climbed a variation that completely avoids the epoxied/chiseled mess and conveniently returns the grade to 13a - though the price of admission is a rather spicy bit of 5.12 climbing: At the pumpy shake after the crux traverse, clip the boulder problem crux bolt and continue traversing straight right 10' to a previously unclimbed, and fragile (pull very gently - don't be the one to break these holds!!!) tufa system, climb up this for 10' to a smooth, sloping blob and perform a difficult move - now way out from the last bolt - to gain the far right end of the post-boulder problem flake-jug (just crimps at this point). From here traverse back left and downwards to find yourself back on the original line just above the boulder problem. Done this way I like to call the climb "Mothership Correction" at 5.13a (with 5.12 PG13). It is my wish that no new bolts be added to this variation.

No matter how you do it this route is superlatively spectacular.

Protection 

At least 15-17 draws for the second pitch. Less for the first.


Comments on Mothership Connection Add Comment
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By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2012

This climb is amazing! The 11d first pitch is pretty cool and climbed way better than I thought it would. The rock on the first pitch is very unique and has some of the grippiest texture of any limestone I have ever been on. From the belay(which is bomber with multiple bolts and acnhor points) you more or less climb directly above entering into the super sick 5.13 pitch. The climbing has incredible position with alot of exposure and just plain sick moves. I felt the climbing up to the first crux was pretty solid but easy 5.12 with some pretty positive holds and good clipping stances. You will know your at the crux when the bolt pattern starts to trend right. The right traverse is very bouldery and sustained and I was quite surprised how continuous this climb felt. After the boulder traverse and crux section you end up on some angry dueling tufas that aren't quite as good as you want them to be given how pumped you are. Overall a badass route and for sure one of the sickest in all of Potrero. Just some FYI, I don't believe you can rappel from the top of the second pitch because the wall is overhung just enough that you probably couldn't reach the anchor at the top of the first pitch. Definately climb with a 70 meter rope for peace of mind given that this climb is 240 feet total in length and super exposed. Have your partner lower you while you stay clipped into the rope on the wall to get back to the top of the first pitch safely. From here its one quick rap to be back on the ground. Enjoy!!
By dameeser
From: denver
Dec 23, 2014

Harder now that the glued holds have been removed. I don't know how much harder but it felt like a solid 5.13. Regardless, this route is amazing and should not be missed. It's possible to step in a sling to pull through the crux.

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