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Home to some of the best hard technical routes and some new steeper hard lines. There are also a couple projects in waiting, notably Holey Wars and the extension to Piranha. Also home to some long 5.11's. Excellent rock.
From the bottom of the central gully, hike north up the dirt road to the split at the toilet. Go left up the hill, contouring around the large talusd field on the left. When directly across from the Eldorado roof, look for a cairn on the left and a trail leading up to the cliff. The cliff is characterized by a long gray face on the left and a steep leaning wall on the right.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Mothership Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mothership Cliff:
Living Dead 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Piranha 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Excelsior 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Fight Club 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Mothership Cliff
Excelsior 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Mothership Cliff
Ultra Classic. This long, vertical, extremely technical route may not be "in style" anymore, but it is one of the best hard routes in the gorge. It is very sustained, thin climbing on perfect rock. Part of the Tom Herbert "E" series. Big holds at the start quickly shrink into small edges and crimps with the odd pocket. The crux hits you about halfway up and features a series of long thin moves with tiny footholds. The top lets up a little but is no gimme. A must do....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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