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Mother's Buttress
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Mother's Buttress 


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Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Oct 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Mother's Buttress.

Description 

The Mother's Buttress area was one of the first areas in the canyon to be developed, and with good reason. Excellent stone with continuous cracks, excellent solid face features, and steep unbroken rock make this area a true gem. The Mother's Buttress is broken into three main crags: Lower, Middle, and Upper Mother's Buttresses. A smaller crag, the Cave Buttress, is also accessed from the same approach, simply walk up and right once you reach the cliff.

Lower Mother's contains a great collection of single pitch cracks from 5.7 to 5.10, and is often a popular area for groups to set up top-ropes. The alcove on Middle Mother's contains the best collection of single pitch 5.11s in the canyon, with a few harder, and longer lines thrown in. Upper Mother's is home to a few classics including Questions and Answers, the undisputed classic multi-pitch in the canyon.

The majority of climbing on Mother's Buttress is on property that is currently owned by local climbers, but will soon be held by a climbing non-profit: the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition. Due to the way the property lines were drawn some climbs on the right side of Lower Mother's and all those on Cave Buttress are owned by another, and this parcel is currently for sale. Stay tuned for more developments.

As of July 2012, the WCCC with the help of volunteers, donations, and grants has been completed the Mother's Buttress project. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbers’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. The Access Fund also played a key role in this project.


Getting There 

Drive 3.1 miles along CO-141 past the turn for divide road to a small pull out on the right side of the road.

There is a new trail that avoids private land that starts just left of the old trail. If you get the right trail you don't need to jump the fence, it is cut down between two of the posts.

Please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mother's Buttress:
Welcoming Party   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Mother's Buttress
Alex's Tower   5.8-     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Lower Mother's Buttress
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route)   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Other Mothers
Fine Line, A   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Lower Mother's Buttress
Mint Jam   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Mother's Buttress
Guide's Route   5.9     Trad, 6 pitches, 670 feet, Grade III   Lower Mother's Buttress
No Name Route   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Mother's Buttress
Unknown Semi OW   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Lower Mother's Buttress
Questions and Answers   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Upper Mother's Buttress
The Lord of Wisdom   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lower Mother's Buttress
Jagged Edge   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Middle Mother's
Centurion   5.11     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Middle Mother's
The Unaweeper   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Cave Buttress
Browse More Classics in Mother's Buttress

Featured Route For Mother's Buttress
Chandler starting off the long classic!

Iron Maiden 5.11  CO : Grand Junction area : ... : Middle Mother's
Start on a broken up rib featured with cracks. Continue up and right as the crack peters out and clip a bolt. From here, you launch up clipping a bolt or two and making some committing moves in between small pro. The pro is good but hard to find at times. There is no one crux on the route, just a 120' of consistent, awesome Unaweep climbing. Balancy, crimpy, and tricky: it's a Unaweep classic!This things takes two ropes or some shenanigans with a 70m....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


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By John Peterson
Oct 18, 2010

www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWL>>>

The credit for this goes to Steve Johnson, who worked tirelessly on all of the legal issues for over two years to get this through countless bureaucratic roadblocks.

By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 2, 2012

On July 28th 2012, the Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition completed the second and final phase of the parking lot on the Mothers Buttress property. With this, the Mothers Buttress project is finished. This would not have been possible without the help of volunteers, donations, and grants. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbers’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. Your support and continued patience throughout this project was amazing. The Access Fund has played a major role in helping the WCCC get to this point of completion, without their guidance and support this would not have been possible. Thank you to everyone that has helped make this possible.

When parking here, please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel. With time the rain will help pack this down, but for now the ground is still settling. Thank you.