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Motherlode Rock - North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fun Police S 
Grizzly Wizard T 
Nitroglycerine S 
Powder Keg S 
Short Fuse S 
Smackdown S 
Whiptail S 

Motherlode Rock - North Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,450'
Page Views: 3,873
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...

Description 

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There 

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

Climbing Season

For the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Short Fuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nitroglycerine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Obi deciding whether to clip in or backflip.

Whiptail 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock - North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lizard
The Lizard

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