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Motherlode Rock - North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fun Police S 
Nitroglycerine S 
Powder Keg S 
Short Fuse S 
Smackdown S 
Whiptail S 

Motherlode Rock - North Face  


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Elevation: 7,450'
Page Views: 21,397
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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Description 

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There 

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Short Fuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nitroglycerine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Tandora leading Smackdown.

Smackdown 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Climb a short vertical face (crux) which quickly slabs out at the second bolt. From here the climb wanders up the slab to a steep finish, which involves handrailing out right along a horizontal crack to a shared anchor with Whiptail. The name comes from a slab-smacking fall, which earned a fractured ankle, by one of the members of the FA party (not me)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock - North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (aka Lizard Head), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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