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Motherlode Rock - North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fun Police S 
Nitroglycerine S 
Powder Keg S 
Short Fuse S 
Smackdown S 
Whiptail S 

Motherlode Rock - North Face  


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Elevation: 7,450'
Page Views: 21,227
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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Description 

The narrow and shady north face, known also as The Lizard Head for it's resemblence to one from the west, is home to a small collection of sport routes that range from 5.8-5.10.

The exposed arete of Whiptail (5.9) is the best route here but Powder Keg (5.10a) and Short Fuse (5.10b) are also enjoyable as worthy of attention.

Routes listed from left to right:

Powder Keg (5.10a)
Nitroglycerine (5.10b)
Short Fuse (5.10b)
Fun Police (5.6)
Smackdown (5.8)
Whiptail (5.9)

Getting There 

Take the trail from the northern parking area, which passes beneath the Incinerator Wall and leads directly to the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - North Face:
Whiptail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Powder Keg   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Short Fuse   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nitroglycerine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - North Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - North Face
Tom Donnelly pulling the crux of Short Fuse.

Short Fuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
The first half of this route involves slab climbing past two bolts which leads to a short but gently overhanging headwall where the crux is to be found. A sequential series of moves past the third bolt gain the last bolt and the crux, which involves a strenuous lieback to gain a jug, after the jug a few moves up and over reach the anchors.There's a bit of rope drag on the lip so it's best to rap off as opposed to lowering. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Motherlode Rock - North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Elaine passing the last bolt of Powder Keg (5.10a)...
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (aka Lizard Head), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
The right side of Motherlode Rock's North Face (ak...
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Smackdown (5.8), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

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