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Motherlode Rock - East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville 
Black Bart 
Blasting Cap 
Cap Gun 
Dust in the Wind 
Fire in the Hole 
Fools Gold 
Golden Gloves 
Golden Nugget 
Lodestone 
Motherlode 
Out of Our Mines 
Psychedelic Sluice 
Shantytown Swing 
Wildrose 

Motherlode Rock - East Face 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 13,107
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock (East Face Left), Holcomb Valley P...

Description 

The east face of Motherlode Rock is fairly long wall with a high concentration of climbs on the left side and only a few routes on the rest of the rock. Climbs here tend to be on the short side but feature excellent rock and protection. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Recommended routes here include Wildrose (5.6), Golden Nugget (5.10a), Lodestone (5.10b) and Out of Our Mines (5.10d).

This area seems to be quite popular with groups of top-ropers, so be courteous as well as patient and enjoy the climbing.

Routes listed from left to right:

Blasting Cap (5.3)
Wildrose (5.6)
Fire in the Hole (5.10a)
Fools Gold (5.6)
Golden Nugget (5.10a)
Motherlode (5.11b)
Black Bart (5.11a)
Psychedelic Sluice (5.6)
Belleville (5.9+ TR)
Shantytown Swing (5.6)
Dust in the Wind (5.4)
Out of Our Mines (5.10d)
Miner Forty-Niner (5.8)


Getting There 

Easily reached from the vicinty of The Ampitheatre (Claim Jumper Wall, Gunsmoke Wall or Thunderbird Wall) by a network of trails or from the northern parking area by another series of trails.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Motherlode Rock - East Face:
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Lodestone   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Out of Our Mines   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Black Bart   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Motherlode   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - East Face
Helen on the lower half of Black Bart.

Black Bart 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top. It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Motherlode Rock - East Face
Photos of Motherlode Rock - East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.
Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.
1. Golden Nugget (5.10a) <br />2. Motherload (5.11b) <br />3. Black Bart (5.11b) <br />4. Psychedelic Sleuce (5.7) <br />5. Shantytown Swing (5.6) <br /> <br />I think this is right, but not 100%. Not all routes listed.  Feel free to add to this!
BETA PHOTO: 1. Golden Nugget (5.10a)
2. Motherload (5.11b)
3. ...
Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley ...
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