Mother of Pearl
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This route continues up and left of the anchors of Looney Tunes through shallow rounded lie backing to small stemming between seams and finishes in a strange left facing, over hanging dihedral. It may be broken into separate pitches, but what fun would that be?
This begins as Looney Tunes then heads up and left to finish about 60 feet above the Trinity Right anchors.
Many small pieces with cams up to 4".
There are a few bolts, a fixed pin and a bashy on route.
Paul Shilton embracing the insecure liebacking of ...
Paul Shilton makes his way up the finishing dihedr...
Chris Gmitro, enjoying a nice rest before the fina...
Chris Gmitro on Mother of Pearl
|Comments on Mother of Pearl
|By Dana Hawlish|
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Oct 28, 2013
found some gear at the base of the route this weekend (10/26)message me and i'll send it back to ya!
Dec 29, 2007
would two sets of smaller cams be sufficient or more?
From: SL UT
Sep 8, 2008
The book lists the grade of this route at 11c, at that it seems like one of the hardest 5.11s anywhere. Great route! Technical and insecure most of the way. As for the gear, one hand size piece, doubles up to red metolius with triples on yellow #2 metolius, tiny nut for the upper dihedral and lots of slings and draws should get you up it.
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
The upper dihedral is HARD, I agree with Bheller, one of the hardest 11s ive been on.
From: Salty Lake
Sep 27, 2010
Upper dihedral protects with a small nut and then a .5 after starting the committing layback. When I climbed this I wondered if all the bolts are necessary? The last one was right next to a protectable flake. Regardless, this route is a full serving of insecure, powerful laybacks and is great the whole way up.
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Feb 5, 2011
Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I have heard some say this one is harder than trinity right, but I disagree. MOP has a few hard liebacking sections, but 2 no hands rests keep the pump down, so it is not nearly as sustained as trinity, or other 11c's like gargoyle. There are 3 bolts and a fixed pin mixed with good gear on the lower 2/3 of the route, adding ease to the liebacking. The stemming between grassy seams sections is easy and fun, then the upper dihedral is by far the mental, gear fiddling crux. I found the sequence to be: Clip the fixed bashie, stem up and place the small nut, then punch it to a great finger lock and place the .5 camalot before lunging left for a jug sidepull, then pull over the easy juggy roof to the anchors. Don't be intimidated by its reputation. It is excellent, well protected climbing.
Gear I placed: #4 nut, doubles .3 to .75 camalot, one #3 camalot(backing up bashie), 10 QD's(it wanders). Bring more if linking it with Looney Tunes
70m gets you down no prob