Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Goose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete T 
Batman S 
Big Bruce S 
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 
Duck, Duck, Goose T 
East Face / Goose T 
Golden Goat S 
Loosey Goosey T 
Love's Labor Lost S 
Mother Goose T 
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 
South Arete T 
South Face T 
Sweet and Innocent T 

Mother Goose 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rob Cassady, Jim Sincock, 1994
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: Jason Carter on Oct 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mother Goose: The red dot shows the first belay as...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a great relatively new, 1994, Flatirons route that ascends almost the entire southern side of the Goose's east face. It begins beneath the giant roofs at the apex of a buttress about 200' above the amphitheater. At this apex is a small, dirt platform with a tree.

    To reach this point hike west between the two middle goose eggs. Continue up a gully on the north (scramble up some slabs) and continue to a point just above some deadfall and brush. From here continue south beneath the big roof system(left) and continue to scramble up to a point where you can drop down off the back side of what you just scrambled up. You are below a ledge system that is under the roofs and need to continue south across some slabs about 15' to a small platform that is flat with a tree on it.

    P1 - Climb up to a moderate bulging flake. Lieback the flake (5.7) and continue up another 5' and begin a leftward traverse along a rock band to a ledge beneath the roofs with some brush and loose rocks.

    P2 - Climb up from the belay and begin a rightward traverse beneath the giant roofs. Climb through the offset in the roof and onto the east face slab (5.6). Continue up the slab veering slightly leftward towards some small cracks for pro (50 feet, 5.6s). Keep heading upward to a point 50' below a small tree at a decent ledge with some loose rocks on it.

    P3 - Continue up the face veering to the left. Climb past and above the tree and head up and leftward for the southern edge of the east face to a convenient belay (5.5, 200').

    P4 - Continue up the edge to the summit (2, 60').

    Descent -120' rappel down the west face or 165' down the southwest face.Or continue along the arete to the low point between the south and north summits. Climb up through a tunnel beneath the north summit, and scramble west and downward (Class 4).

    Protection 

    Sm/md/lg stoppers, small to med cams, a 3.5 or 4 Camalot protects the lieback on P2, 120ft rappel down the west face, 165ft rappel down the south west face

    [The lieback is on P1 and can be protected with a larger cam otherwise the rest of the route is protected with sm - med gear.

    George indicates they went left at the flake on P1. It looks in the first picture their gear is right at the layback flake (green runner) - it is wide, I don't know what they placed there, but choose your own destiny here as the traverse left is balancy and technical and the lieback takes a little faith to commit to but rewards you afterwards.]


    Photos of Mother Goose Slideshow Add Photo
    The start of the first pitch, with the two ramps v...
    The start of the first pitch, with the two ramps v...
    Northern summit and hand traverse that starts the ...
    Northern summit and hand traverse that starts the ...
    Higher on P1, making the choice for the upper ramp...
    Higher on P1, making the choice for the upper ramp...
    Southern summit of the Goose.
    Southern summit of the Goose.
    Looking down the big slab after the roofs.
    Looking down the big slab after the roofs.
    View of the slab from the E Face.
    View of the slab from the E Face.
    The third pitch, easy but fun slab climbing.
    The third pitch, easy but fun slab climbing.
    Looking down the southern edge.
    Looking down the southern edge.
    View of the roof.
    View of the roof.
    View north.
    View north.
    Traverse under the roof.
    Traverse under the roof.
    Another view of the north summit of the Goose.
    Another view of the north summit of the Goose.
    Exiting the roof section to excellent rock on the ...
    Exiting the roof section to excellent rock on the ...
    Another view of the route from the E Face (the not...
    Another view of the route from the E Face (the not...

    Comments on Mother Goose Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 7, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    For generations, climbers on the Mesa Trail have searched the giant central overhang on the east face of the Goose for signs of weakness. But it seems nobody went up there and checked - until 1994. This route shows that there is a sneaky 5.7 passage which involves no overhanging moves at all!

    The first pitch looks easy, but is actually the crux of the route, for the rock is quite friable. The first 30 feet are particularly tricky and the easiest passage is not obvious. About 50 feet up, you have the choice of two ramps which head left, both look trivial. We took the upper ramp and it's trickier than it looks because of the looseness, there is no pro and a fall will crater onto the lower ledge, even for the follower. I believe Jason took the lower ramp, which IS really 3rd class (and ends at a much better belay ledge).

    P1 is only about 100' long. Rossiter suggests linking P1 & P2. It would not be fun above the roof with a lot of rope drag, there is no gear for at least 50 feet past the roof.

    After you breach the roofs (which remarkably involve no overhanging or even steep moves at all) the rock quality becomes flawless. Here is Flatiron slabmongering at its best, and the upper part of this route is three stars. After observing this giant slab from the Mesa Trail for years, it was fun to finally be climbing it.

    We took a #4 Camalot but I don't really think you need it. You can get a #2 in a few feet farther along the traverse on P2.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 8, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    That's a #3 Camalot connected to the green runner in this Photo. This was placed at the narrowest section and a wider piece could also be used. The traverse we did there I thought the crux of the route, it is very balancy and has only a side pull for a handhold.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 14, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    P1-P2 linked = 190'. Take a few long slings. Yellow Camalot and a medium Alien can protect the section with gritty rock.