Mothballed  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Tucker Tech (late '80s) Submitted By:  Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This climb can be toproped after leading Tiny Tim, or it is a fairly well protected lead. All the lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2011.

Start up a right facing corner and then undercling right under a small roof to the first bolt. From here make some very difficult moves to gain the shallow double cracks. The crux is 5.11 and is probably getting harder as the potato-chip edges crumble away. Once you're in the double cracks follow them up and exit to the right of some hummocks and take easier terrain to the anchor.

Protection 

Pro to 2" but mostly small stuff. The main difficulties are protected by bolts.