||Aid, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade V
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3+ [details]|
|FA: ||Brian Bird, Eric Draper, Nate Brown, John Sedon--the team Kiwi May 2001|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,551|
|Submitted By: ||Nate Brown on Jul 10, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: topo by bryan bird
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Obscure route on the left side of the face. We had so much stuff with us, we called our rig the "mongolian chicken bus". It was a blast, good times. I recall that Doug Heinrich had given Bird and Draper some prototype big peckers and we were so psyched. We were calling them African Peckers. I don't think BD could market them with that name. Kind of not PC...
The route shares the first two or three pitches with Swiss American and then breaks left through steep glorious aid crack systems. It goes through the right arc of the "cyclops eye" on the face and then through the "batwinger roof" and ending in the huge dihedrals at upper left edge of the cilff. We could have nailed the Cyclops Eye but drilled to preserve the feature. We were worried that we would "dinner plate" the feature--visible to the eye from the road=bad juju...
pins, cams, nuts, ropes...
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Mar 10, 2010