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most splitter hand crack at Tahquitz/Suicide?

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The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

dabbling with the idea of a quick trip to check out Tahquitz for the first time. I love granite cracks of all shapes and sizes, but nothing gets me psyched more than a beautiful hand-sized splitter. What routes there can I check out to get my psyche high for the trip?

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Part Dank.... no real long perfect splitters.... but parts of some climbs are just perfect.

This is probably the best one:

mountainproject.com/v/insom…

"Flower of High Rank" is good and you can do "The Wet Dream" as pitch two of Flower.

Pisano Jam Crack, not Pisano overhang is a Big Fist deal and the first climb at Suicide (1956... the boys luged a jug of Pisano wine to the top... broken bits remain if you look down from the top)

The first pitch of "Vampire" is a very nice crack.

IMHO, the best splitter crack climbing in California, outside of the Valley, is the Needles.

Enjoy

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

well, I wasn't expecting Indian Creek! haha both of ya'll posted PERFECT responses and I am super psyched.

Aesthetically Wong Climb is gorgeous, but that fist crack behing the flake on Insomnia is pretty much the definition of the style of climbing I most enjoy

Jeff McLeod · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 45

if you go to tahquitz & suicide to climb cracks and leave without doing flower of high rank you have made a huge mistake. that climb is very close to flawless

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

If your hands are big enough then Open Book, one of the longest splitters. But really it's like fist-OW.

The last bit of the first pitch of Fingertrip has two options, the left option is a very pretty splitter (thin) hand crack (30' or so? been a while).

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Insomnia and Open Book are the best wider cracks at T/S. Pirate is the most aesthetic splitter, but more of a tips (at best) thing.

Cori Tite · · Sylmar, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 10

The 2nd pitch of El Whampo has been described as the best 5.7 splitter crack at Tahquitz.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

As I recall, Whodunnit has a fair amount of jamming after pitch 1. But that first pitch of the Wong Climb is great.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Jeff McLeod wrote:if you go to tahquitz & suicide to climb cracks and leave without doing flower of high rank you have made a huge mistake. that climb is very close to flawless
just looked it up... daaaayaaamn

I don't think I've ever seen a crack go around a corner quite like that
fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

+1 to Flower of High Rank

Also this: mountainproject.com/v/the-c…

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Good suggestions from everyone thus far. The crux of Consolation (5.9) has this interesting double crack thing in a corner that's hand size. Also, the Y Crack (.10b) is hand size. Burly for its grade though. Johnny Quest (.10b) has a nice section of splitter fingers, but it's over pretty quickly. Dave's Deviation (5.9) is a nice finger crack. Also look at Human Fright (.10a). Both crack pitches but the first pitch has some nice hand-sized sections on it.

Surprisingly, haven't done either El Whampo or Wong Climb, but both look really nice for the rating.

steverett · · Boston, MA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

El Whampo and Wong Climb might still be wet, anyone been there recently?

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

+ 1 for Consolation. It's like 3 pitches of hands joyfully jamming and the crux corner is trippy.

+2 for Flowers of high rank. The climb really speaks for itself.

-1 For the Wong climb. I thought that pitch was more of a jug haul than a jammy.

If you want fists instead of hands- pitch 3 of the Blank is super splitter.



Pearly Gates a great hand crack. It has great position and packs a punch, however, the business is pretty short.
Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

First pitch of Human Fright has excellent jams, probably one of my favorites at Tahquitz.

Joshua Reinig · · Lone Pine Ca. · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 18,210
Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 8,821

On Suicide, try Johnny Quest, Northeast face routes.

Rich Welker · · Riverside, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 145

+1 Flower of High Rank

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 198

The last time I was at Tahquitz I did a .10 way over on the left side. I believe it was called Y Crack. It was very burly and good. Make sure you have a 2nd who can follow it though. Mine could not, and due to it's overhanging/ leaning nature, it was a total bitch to clean ;)

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Etude has some nice crack as well, although the crux is a face move.

Chris Norwood · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 80
Joshua Reinig wrote: Darwin Splitter!!!!
yeeeehaw!!!
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Joshua Reinig wrote: Darwin Splitter!!!!
I wanna get inside that thing!
How hard it is?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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