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Most Excellent 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: d.singer,d.miller
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: Matt S on Dec 15, 2010
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a most excellent afternoon

Description 

start up a funky chimney with some awkward jams. grab a sharp blockette and pull through a slot to a no hands ledge. use long slings down low or you can pull your rope through to reduce drag. get some pieces up high before you take off. theres a slab on the right and an arete on the left. some cool stemming gets you up to a rest. .2/RPs. then the crux , i wont tell you much but use your feet and push really hard. the gear is tiny and its all pretty good. its only 5.11 but you need to sack up for this 5.11, think mayflower direct, but harder.


Location 

between vertebrea and midwestern gangster


Protection 

heavy on the fingers on down to thin, RPs and one thin hand piece for the start.



Photos of Most Excellent Slideshow Add Photo
Matt S smoothing out another fine onsight at the Waterfall.
Matt S smoothing out another fine onsight at the W...
Matt S, Most Excellent 5.11
Matt S, Most Excellent 5.11
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 16, 2010

Nice Matt! Good work on the onsight!

By Matt S
Dec 18, 2010

man that was a tough route to read, im really glad i got it so i dont have to do it again. thanks again for the photos

By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 3, 2013

This thing is hard and quite insecure. I didn't have any but I think Lowe Balls would probably work better than RPs, but you may be better off just gunning it from the mini ledge to the anchors.