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|Type: ||Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Clint Cummins and Bob Steed 3/21/2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||bob steed on Mar 31, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: overview of routes, unnamed is in yellow
Pitch 1: Starts 10' right of Dangling Chads pitch 1 in a dark seam that takes micronuts for pro. 5.8
Pitch 2: Up right facing corner to a 5.11a thin crux 60 feet up. 5.11a
Pitch 3: Go left to join D.C. for 30' then climb back right up some large munge. Easy slab follows to a grey rock scar. 5.7
Pitch 4: Straight up past slab to a bulge with a crack in the middle. Belay on a ledge 20' above this bulge (2 bolt belay). 5.8
Pitch 5: Up past 3 bolts to a belay in the munge zone next to a block 60' up and right past the 3rd bolt. 5.9
Pitch 6: Up and right past munge to a large slot in the headwall. Belay above the slot at the 2 bolt belay for Eagle's Eyrie. 5.9
Pitch 7: Go up and left to a white slab with a hidden thin crack. When the angle eases move up and right to the base of the giant headwall. 5.7
Pitch 8: Traverse left to avoid the lower headwall then up 4th class to a point level with a large manzanita in the middle of the headwall. Traverse right past an awkward section to gain a small ledge just above the manzanita bush. 5.7
Pitch 9: Up to the left of two cracks that breach a steep section, then up past easy blocks to a belay below a steep handcrack or move right to the 2 bolt belay of Eagle's Eyrie. 5.8
Pitch 10: Up the short, steep handcrack to the top.
Descent: rap Eagle's Eyrie via it's 9 bolted belays (all SS 3/8" as of 3/21/2010)
Located just to the right of Dangling Chads 5.9 start. Look for a thin seam in dark rock.
2 each thin cams to 2.5"
nuts including micro and offset
BETA PHOTO: lower part, unnamed is in yellow
BETA PHOTO: upper part, unnamed in yellow